Word: jinghong
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...which offers customized tours and cruises in the region, says that she has had relatively few inquiries about participating in the event. "We suspect that the drought has severely affected our customers' itineraries in Yunnan." Those places accustomed to welcoming hordes of tourists, like Xishuangbanna's capital city of Jinghong, have previously been characterized by the most boisterous water-splashing celebrations; there, children and visitors haphazardly fling containers of muddy and colored water about, rushing back and forth to restaurants and strangers' homes to refill. Anouska Komlosy, curator of Asian ethnography at the British Museum, writes that in villages just...
...With no clue other than the name of Bua's childhood village, Baan Yandee, we decide to start at the palace of the Dai King, Jau Phaendin. After hours of wandering Jinghong's wide, quiet streets, we spot two elderly Dai women in traditional dress?long, silk sheaths and blouses, cinched by wide, silver belts. "Jau Phaendin?" asks my wife. "Don't you know?" whispers one of the women. The last Dai King, she tells us, was exiled to Kunming during the tumultuous early years of the People's Republic of China, and his magnificent teak palace was torn down...
...wracking my brain for culinary superlatives as the moon-faced restaurateur eggs me on, plying me with cold beer. Mouthwatering? Lip-smacking? Succulent? Scrumptious? "Yes, yes," says Chai Uan-kum, proprietor of Chai Chuan Chin, scribbling furiously. "Very good." His is the newest establishment on Manting Lu Road, Jinghong's premier eat street, and I've been enlisted to help draft a sign in English that will lure peckish Westerners...
...Palm-lined Manting Lu Road, near the Mekong in the heart of Jinghong, is a magnet for the hungry. Other standouts among its dozens of eateries are the Mei Mei and Forest cafes, backpackers' havens both. But for authentic eats, head for Chai's place. He gets all the superlatives...
...Baan, as the Dai call it (Luosuo Jiang on Chinese maps) is about two hours' drive from Jinghong. The first part of the trip is scarier than the rafting: a twisting road dips and soars above the furious foamy rush of the Mekong's narrow gorges. Just when you're wishing you had found time to write your last will and testament, though, the road eases off into long, straight runs through rice paddies, and the previous hour's terror is left behind?much like the worst moments of river rafting, once the boat reaches calm waters. "We do fall...