Word: jumpsuiting
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...season's most exotic and original fashion book is Issey Miyake (New York Graphic Society; $40). Japanese designer Miyake's particular genius is with fabric and shape. Here are lilting cascades of pleats, riffs on the jumpsuit that really leap, whirling fantasies on samurai gear. Seen through photographer Irving Penn's daring aesthetic eye, the clothes have a drama that nearly engulfs the imagination. The affable accompanying essay is a reminder that these duds are wearable...
...exploits these past four years. For one thing, he had his face resculpted hundreds of times, it seems. It's now so soft, unmasculine, luminescent and unreal, that it contrasts directly with his new street image--which gave up the Sgt. Pepper-style sequined uniforms for a black leather jumpsuit studded with spiky buckles and steelheeled boots...
...touching our grandfathers' faith in the future seems, in our day of acid rain, exploding shuttles, decaying inner cities and general creeping dystopia. The mood is epitomized in objects like the male costume of the future dreamed up for Vogue -- a bearded figure in an immaculate white jumpsuit wearing a circular antenna as a halo on his head, John the Baptist among the insulators. Everything is streamlined, even objects that are screwed down and cannot move, so that America's breathless rush toward Utopia is clearly signified by things like a 1933 Raymond Loewy metal teardrop desk-mounted pencil sharpener...
...guard, has been escorting children across the same street for ten years. "People here look up to him," she says of Gotti. "As soon as you mention his name, he gets respect. As far as I'm concerned, they're crucifying him." A young mother in a powder blue jumpsuit, who is picking up her small daughter, says of Gotti, "I think he's good for 101st Avenue. There's no riffraff around here. If it weren't for him, this neighborhood would be carried away by the drug addicts." Every year on the Fourth of July, the Bergen Hunt...
...white albs underneath, evoking the stained-glass windows of his boyhood memory. ("God was light," he recalls.) The outsize cross symbols are certainly traditional enough, inspired as they were by clothing that St. Louis wore during the Seventh Crusade. More outre, Courreges offered a white-and- silver jumpsuit with epaulets, just the thing for missionaries to Mars...