Word: junya
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...four fashion capitals essentially dominating the industry on the basis of tradition and clout alone, it’s easy to overlook the countless other fashion weeks cropping up in cities around the globe, to varying effect. Tokyo and Copenhagen maintain a loyal following with cult native designers like Junya Tashiro and Henrik Vibskov, while São Paolo is also emerging as a worthy contender. Still the future of Los Angeles’ once-successful fashion week is uncertain in the current economic climate, suffering from waning corporate sponsorship and the steady relocation of local talent. And here...
...fashion designers, journalists and buyers were taking in the fall 2009 runway shows in Paris and trying to rationalize what they were seeing. Even at its most frivolous, fashion always reflects the moment, so how would designers interpret the collapsing Dow and skyrocketing unemployment? Clarity came for me at Junya Watanabe's poetic show, a tribute to African style expressed in hand-blocked prints paired with recycled-denim skirts. As the first model appeared, a hush of recognition settled over the audience. It was a true fashion moment, one that defines the changing times. Suddenly, references to Africa were everywhere?...
...trail of London's miscreants. Ralph Lauren's first collection in 1968 made the tweed suit a menswear staple. And now Lower East Side hipsters can't seem to get enough of the classic suiting fabric, signaling that tweed is staging a comeback. For his fall collection, Junya Watanabe spun the storied fabric into schoolboy blazers nostalgic for jaunts across Cambridge's Bridge of Sighs. And with the recent sartorial resurgence, it's no surprise that tweed is migrating beyond lapels and finding its way into accessories like Etro's patchwork bag and Harrys of London's loafers. Alias' modernist...
...Junya Watanabe Man brown tweed jacket ($1,595), red-and-white gingham shirt ($380) and brown corduroy pants with leather patch pockets ($465; Comme des Garçons N.Y., 212-604-9200) 2 Loro Piana baby cashmere scarf ($775; loropiana.com 3 Alfredo Häberli for Alias Taormina chair in Kvadrat fabric ($940; aliasusa.com 4 J. Crew tweed fedora hat ($68; jcrew.com 5 Etro nylon and tweed men's bag ($1,400; etro.it) 6 Alexander Olch blue and gray herringbone tie ($160; Bergdorf Goodman Men's, 212-753-7300) 7 Harrys of London Mansion slippers ($650; San Giorgio Shoes...
...Junya Watanabe-a Tokyo-based protege of Rei Kawakubo-is one of the most audacious talents on the runway, and his spring show was a study in how to take formal fabrics like jacquard, barathea and even white cotton shirting and reconstruct them in slender, Edwardian shapes...