Word: kanaya
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...kilometers out of town. A room for one including two meals goes for $120 a night. Call (81-55) 828 1234 for reservations. But if you just want to take a dip, hop on the train ride Rendaiji station (one stop north of Shimoda) and go to the Kanaya ryokan's sennin-buro , or thousand-person bath...
...While most onsen offer a cozy, over-sized tub feeling, the Kanaya is a steaming behemoth of a bath, half the length of an Olympic-sized swimming pool. A thousand people might be hyperbole (a hundred is more like it), but so what? With wood paneling, high ceilings, statues of frolicking nymphs and a rotenburo, or outdoor bath, this steamy classic offers bathers the chance to par-boil in elegance or cool off under the night...
...Costing $6 per soak, the Kanaya is not cheap as far as bathing goes, but it's a small price for a classy Japanese ryokan experience. The attached inn has lovely traditional-style rooms and offers visitors a delectable Japanese feast. Rooms start at $127 per night, including two meals. Book...
...more thing separates the Kanaya from other onsen: mixed-gender bathing, a custom Townsend Harris found "indelicate" for "a people so generally correct." A separate ladies' bath exists, but the main room is available for both sexes to come and go as they please. Generally prohibited by the American authorities in post-war Japan, these old-style onsen are a rare find. If you get the chance, give it a try. Just don't stare...
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