Word: kathmandu
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...Enter Samrat Upadhyay, Kathmandu-born but U.S.-educated, here to trim the verbal overgrowth. Upadhyay, whose first book was a well-regarded collection of short stories called Arresting God in Kathmandu, is that rarity among authors of a subcontinental drift: he is an under-writer, both in style and substance, the anti-Arundhati. Upadhyay employs the kind of simple, sanded-down prose built in American creative-writing workshops, but with a touch of Buddhist detachment. He is equally austere with his typically middle-class characters?though they suffer fine shades of psychological distress, they lack the will to do anything...
GUIDELINES There are more than 2,000 registered trekking guides in Kathmandu alone, and while most offer honest, impeccable service, horror stories abound. When choosing a guide, make sure he or she has been accredited by the Hotel Management and Tourism Training Centre, is familiar with the area you will be visiting and can arrange emergency-helicopter evacuation service should a member of your party be injured. Check online travel chat rooms for recommendations and reviews. (Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree travel forum is a good place to start; go to lonelyplanet.com.) Beware of guides who tout their own services...
...STYLE The Hyatt Regency in Kathmandu has a swimming pool; the Yak and Yeti has a luxurious reputation. But what Kathmandu's Hotel Vajra lacks in televisions and high-speed Internet connections, it more than makes up for in charm, comfort and personality. A pleasant distance from the tourist area of Thamel and a stone's throw from the landmark Swayambhu stupa, the 22-year-old inn was designed to resemble a traditional Nepali palace, complete with a tranquil flower garden, fountains and a rooftop terrace ideal for watching the sun set over the capital...
ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT You don't have to strap on hiking boots to get up close and personal with the mountains. Departing from Kathmandu, many local airlines offer early morning mountain flybys along the Himalayan ridge. Buddha Air sends out two 16-seaters every morning, weather permitting. Each passenger sits beside a window, and as the plane nears Mount Everest, the friendly flight attendant brings each flyer up to the cockpit for a direct prospect. Not that Everest's neighbors are anything to sniff at: the hour-long flight takes in no less than five of the world's tallest peaks...
...FACT FINDER From Yeti sightings to the coolest picks in Kathmandu, the legends and sounds of the mountain kingdom echo through these Web pages. For the tired climber eager to get away from the peaks, why not meditate or go on a jungle safari or better yet, book a bed at one of their recommended stays...