Word: kebab
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Sitting cross-legged over a breakfast of flat bread and kebab in the upper room of a tea shop, Ghulam Rabbani watches his troops in the bazaar below. Amid a throng of locals in the northeastern Afghan town of Baharak, scores of his Northern Alliance soldiers are making last-minute buys before boarding large Russian-built flatbed trucks for the three-day journey through the heart of the Hindu Kush mountains to the plains north of Kabul. "We've served in the north for the past four months," says Rabbani. "But we're being moved south for duty...
...schools)?was the center of medieval Samarkand and remains the most impressive site (entry $1). In the market near Bibi-Khanym, something of the Silk Road survives as women hawk bread as big as dinner plates, children push barrows of melons and men slice sides of mutton for the kebab stands around town. Most hotels are concrete, Soviet-style affairs. The Furkat bed-and-breakfast offers doubles at $50; call (998-662) 353-261. Or try the Hotel Afrosiab, where doubles go for $90-$110; call (998-662) 311-341. For good Uzbek food (kebabs, mutton soup and noodles), head...