Word: kebabs
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...BATH For the full body experience of the hammam, or Turkish bath, head for the 300-year-old Cagaloglu Hammam, whose roster of famous guests ranges from Florence Nightingale to Tony Curtis. Segregated baths for men and women. Kazim Ismail Gurkan Caddesi, 34, tel. +212 522 24 24 BEST KEBAB Meat-lovers can rejoice at Kosebasi Levent (pronounced Koshebashi), where Bill Clinton took his daughter Chelsea on a recent visit. Don't bother with a menu, sit back and let your waiter make the choices. Camlik Sokak, No. 15/3, tel. +212 270 24 33 BEST MUSIC Toward the Galata Tower...
...more expensive) than your basic baguette and beurre. But they'll be created in the same spirit. Savoy likes to work with a single ingredient, emphasizing the multiplicity of flavors and textures. Take his agneau dans tous ses états - roughly, lamb every which way - which includes grilled lamb kebab, roast saddle of lamb, poached lamb's knuckle and grilled lamb's neck confit. Says Savoy: "It's a way of demonstrating the wealth of tastes that exist within one product." Klein agrees with the "less is more" philosophy. "You have to keep the product intact," he says...
...West Bank and then a job in the Persian Gulf. After Jordan signed a peace treaty with Israel in 1994, his prospects improved. Foreign tourists, including busloads of Israelis, flocked to his family's rustic restaurant north of Amman. Last week, as Hodeib surveyed tables once teeming with shish kebab and Oriental salads, a shrug came easier than a smile. "Things are worse, 100% worse," he says. "Life was getting better, but then everything collapsed...
Metalheads almost never allow folk flavors to impinge on their wrathful pounding, so System of a Down, an Armenian-American metal band, is as refreshing as a whiff of shish kebab in a Burger King. Its music has a near Eastern feel, a sound akin to what Metallica might produce in a revival of Fiddler on the Roof. Moreover, the band knows raunchy from bad: drug dealers and groupies get their due tongue lashings. Best of all, the group keeps most songs under three minutes, a suitable dose of new metal for ears still traumatized by old metal's five...
Sitting cross-legged over a breakfast of flat bread and kebab in the upper room of a tea shop, Ghulam Rabbani watches his troops in the bazaar below. Amid a throng of locals in the northeastern Afghan town of Baharak, scores of his Northern Alliance soldiers are making last-minute buys before boarding large Russian-built flatbed trucks for the three-day journey through the heart of the Hindu Kush mountains to the plains north of Kabul. "We've served in the north for the past four months," says Rabbani. "But we're being moved south for duty...