Word: kigali
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...looked like an episode of roadside vengeance. About 30 miles southwest of the capital city of Kigali, four Tutsi, one of them a soldier of the victorious Rwandan Patriotic Front, stood around a Hutu man in his 50s. He was barefoot and dressed in a torn shirt and baggy pants. A dirty strip of blue- and-white fabric roped his elbows tight behind his back. His three young accusers shouted that the Hutu was a member of a militia group that had slaughtered Tutsi and political moderates earlier this year. They had seen him beat an old woman to death...
Only a few hundred refugees each day summon up the courage to leave the festering camps in Zaire to head the other way. Whatever might be happening out in the countryside, the trickle of Rwandans who reach Kigali enter a city of eerie quiet. Fewer than 100,000 of the 350,000 people who lived in the capital four months ago are there now. There is no electricity, no phone service, only partial water supply. Businesses and factories are shuttered...
Julie and Pascal Munyanziza and their two children, who had fled to the south, made the journey back to their tidy three-room house in a mixed Tutsi and Hutu section of Kigali. They found all the windows broken and much of the furniture gone, but the windows have been patched and the house now bears a handwritten sign: IYINZU BANYIRAYO BARAHARI (The owner is here). "If you don't mark your house," says Munyanziza, "someone will take...
Despite fears of revenge, the Munyanzizas return to Kigali...
...Wounded soldiers are visited every day by their colonel, twice a week by the army's Chief of Staff. While other refugees starve, the Rwandan military receive not just rations but something even more important: money, in the form of Rwandan francs brought by the fleeing former government from Kigali. "Every soldier continues to receive his salary in exile," declared Sergeant Major Charles Bonimpaye. "An army has to have order...