Word: kilgour
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...bespoke Savile Row suit is a British icon, right up there with the Beatles, the Queen and the red double-decker bus. So you should probably be sitting down for this: Kilgour French Stanbury, tailors to the well-heeled and well-dressed, are making some of their suits in Shanghai. Why? The same reason anybody makes anything in China these days: it's a lot cheaper. The Shanghai suits start at $1,650, a mighty markdown from the $5,800 for the made-in-London versions. But is it still a Savile Row suit if it's made in China...
...ways. But others responded with brighter designs and cheaper lines - which is one of the reasons the hip male style leaders in Britain (the editors of Arena, Esquire and GQ) now prefer traditional Savile Row tailoring over designer duds. Under the design direction of Carlo Brandelli, Savile Row's Kilgour French Stanbury has been rewarded with not only the business of the fashion crowd, but of the celebrity crowd as well. Actor Jude Law and musician Noel Gallagher are customers too. "I would fear walking into Anderson & Sheppard," says Bill Prince, GQ's deputy editor. "But Kilgour understands younger...
Spirit Levels & Polaroid. "The first thing American clients say is 'Don't give me an English suit,' " says Louis Stanbury, partner of Kilgour, French & Stanbury. "I tell them if they want a sack suit they should go to Brooks Brothers." What Stanbury and his confreres have done is to marry English and American tailoring into a "mid-Atlantic cut." This is somewhat arrogantly described as "not quite what an Englishman would wear," but with more shape than the typical U.S. suit. Nor is shape the only compromise. Lacking central heating, Englishmen prefer fabrics weighing 15 ounces...
Magic Ingredient. Kilgour, French & Stanbury, whose clients include Novelist Patrick Dennis, David Merrick and CBS Chairman William Paley, thought nothing of fitting two vicuna overcoats for a 20th Century-Fox executive in the VIP lounge of the London Airport while he was between planes. Boston Symphony Orchestra Conductor Erich Leinsdorf remembers that "whenever I played at Festival Hall, Stanbury would go there and study my motions so he could improve my full-dress suit...
...example, the Adams House Arts Festival will illustrate its theme May 14-20 with samples of Russian culture drawn from throughout the Harvard community. Yet few at Harvard have been aware of them. Much of the Kilgour Collection of rare copies and first editions in Russian literature and music, now in Houghton Library, will be on display in6Next time you're walking beneath a chandeller in Dunster's Junior Common Room, look up. You'll see some of Dunster's arts festival up there too. The Dunster festival emphasizes the visual arts...