Word: klong
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...hold on?aren't Nigeria's Super Eagles out of the World Cup, first-round casualties, winging their way back to Africa and ignominy? Not in Thailand, where they have firmed as favorites after a 6-1 trouncing of Japan in last week's opening match of the 1st Klong Prem Central Prison World...
...bullet to the back of the head. That was almost two years ago, at Bang Kwang, the infamous Bangkok Hilton. Thailand was in the grip of a methamphetamine binge, and the authorities hoped the bloody scenes would dissuade people from dealing in these "crazy medicine" pills. When Klong Prem's gates creaked open last week, it was to celebrate another kind of madness?where the only shots fired would be on goal...
...After passing banana plantations and coconut groves, we turned into a canal called Klong Bangkok Noi, where Poon spied a hawker in a boat piled high with soap, snacks and sodas. The long-sought coffee peddler set a pot of water boiling on a tiny gas stove. He carefully poured steaming water through what looked suspiciously like a gym sock filled with ground coffee. It dripped into a can already laced with two generous spoonfuls of sweetened condensed milk. In one practiced motion he scooped a plate of ice into a plastic sack, poured in the steaming coffee, stabbed...
...pump jockey at a Star gas station. And he has a girlfriend, and he has his motorcycle, a Honda GSR 125. This weekend, like most weekends, he'll be racing his bike with the other guys from the neighborhood, down at Bangkok's superslum Klong Toey. That's why tonight, a few days before the race, he is working on his bike, removing a few links of the engine chain to lower the gear ratio and give the bike a little more pop off the line. He kneels down with a lighted candle next to him, his hands greasy...
...Ranong avenue, next to the Klong Toey slum, they meet up with bikers from other slums. They have been holding these rallies for a decade, some of the kids first coming on the backs of their older brothers' bikes. Ken rot is a ritual by now, as ingrained in Thai culture as the speed they smoke to get up for the night of racing. The street is effectively closed off to non-motorcyclists and pedestrians. The bikers idle along the side of the road and then take off in twos and threes, popping wheelies, the usual motorcycle stunts. But souped...