Word: kolasin
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...Europe's best-kept ski secret lies in the Bjelasica mountains at Jezerine, about 15 minutes by car outside the town of Kolasin, itself an hour and a half's drive up the stunning Moraca Canyon from the Montenegrin capital of Podgorica. Although the range's highest peak, Crna Glava (Black Head), is only 7,018 ft. (2,139 m), the amount of snowfall and variety of terrain in Jezerine will surprise you. While relatively small compared to many European resorts - there are only five lifts, although a high-speed quad is being built - Jezerine's tree-skiing, powder...
...Bianca Resort is the best place to stay in Kolasin, with its wonderful spa, first-class gym, nightclub, fine restaurant and massive indoor pool. Rates start from about $190 for a standard double. While the nightlife does not rival Val D'Isère's, you can swap Budweiser and burgers (or red wine and raclette) for pear schnapps and kacamak, a delicious fondue-like dish made from boiled potatoes and melted cheese, eaten in traditional straw-roofed restaurants like Savardak...
...That includes a battalion of elite, well-paid soldiers selected for their loyalty to Milosevic. As in Slovenia and Croatia a decade ago, the Montenegrin government is training and arming an equal number of police to counter the army's threat. In regions such as the northern town of Kolasin, 19 miles from the Serbian border, the two armed sides are taking each other's measure. "If there is a war, we will have no other choice but to defend the majority of Montenegrins," confides a dour-looking police officer at a Kolasin cafe...
Milovan Djilas, Minister Without Portfolio, is 38, a Montenegrin from Kolasin. His wife, Mitra-Mitrovic, is a Communist intellectual and a minister in the cabinet of the Serbian Republic. Djilas, a graduate from Belgrade University's faculty of law, is co-editor of the Communist daily, Borba. Today one of his functions is to direct "agitprop," the psychological warfare branch of the Yugoslav government. A forceful, brilliant writer and speaker, Djilas, with his shock of black hair and lively eyes, is a more attractive personality than the other two members of the triumvirate...
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