Word: kowloon
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...airline amenity kit became a novelty when you flew into Hong Kong: the supplied blindfold was not for sleeping but for landing. And you only used the earplugs once you landed: these were not for ears but nostrils because the first smell of Hong Kong was of its Kowloon Bay sewage outflow. The first time comedian Bob Hope landed at Kai Tak he asked about the terrible smell. A friend informed him it was sewage. "Yes I know, but what have they done to it?" was his reply...
...Today, sitting in their landmark Kowloon studio?where the walls are covered with two decades of messages from fans?the boys from Beyond are in an affable and unapologetic mood. "It's a technique to be able to strike a balance between rock and commercial music," says Paul Wong, the band's 39-year-old guitarist. "Once you decide to produce albums, undergrounders call you rock traitors, but the public doesn't even know who you are yet. Every day you're struggling between commercialization and your dream, which we had to remember very clearly. [That dream] was to change...
...Gawler, an avuncular, semi-retired flight engineer, is navigating my journey into deep childhood, starting with the shrubbery behind Hong Kong's Kowloon Bowling Green Club (KBGC). Gawler is one of its longest-standing members. "The fa wong [gardener] had a house here and a well," he says. "All the kids used to play here, remember...
...clubs have changed," says Marian Conbeer, the tanned and motherly manager of the Kowloon Cricket Club. "Local people don't need the club in the same way. They've got their own lives, so they pop into the club. But the expats used to come all day, every day. They didn't have anything else. We've lost that?it's just not here anymore...
...shopping mecca of Kowloon, Low B Club offers a mixed bag. Marked-down labels like Moschino and Helmut Lang (slightly worn shirts from $26; dresses around $100) nestle alongside celebrity cast-offs and funky Japanese imports handpicked by Choi. Those more interested in memorabilia than street wear can ogle the jeans Nicholas Tse wore...