Word: kudu
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...town, the Brauhaus bar-restaurant, tel: (264-64) 402 214, makes you feel as though you are in deepest Germany, but 30 years ago. Locals go there for the beer - especially the Hansa, Tafel and Windhoek lagers - and the meat, particularly wiener schnitzel and game such as oryx and kudu...
...from savanna to kopjes (small hills) and rocky ridges, were one of the highlights of the journey, the landscapes all the more forbidding and arid because of the late arrival of the rainy season. Even though wildlife was relatively scarce, we still saw a wealth of fauna including greater kudu, the agile klipspringer antelope, fish eagles, the voracious ant lion and shy pancake tortoises. Added drama came from following elephant tracks, hearing a leopard grunt across a riverbank, speculating as to the whereabouts of a lone crocodile near our camp and scrambling up the rocky...
...unchanged since the turn of the last century. Many houses have been converted into hotels. Best is the six-room Andries Stockenstrom Guesthouse on Craddock Street. In her high-ceilinged, 1819 manor house, award-winning chef Beatrice Barnard serves up Karoo haute cuisine: ostrich-liver paté, smoked kudu with sesame water and loin of Karoo lamb on potato rösti. Room rates are $94-107 per person...
...museum. Around it has grown a small community of artists and other refugees from modern living, including André Cilliers, who moved to Nieu Bethesda from Cape Town when even that laid-back city became too much, and now serves up home-made goats' cheese, smoked kudu salami and delicious honey ale at his Two Goats Deli and Brewery. Time your visit for spring (September-November), when the desert blooms with orange and pink flowers, or autumn (March-May), when the figs are ripening. You'll never skip desert again...
...bottom is falling out of the rhino market, perhaps because visiting hunters pay in U.S. dollars, and local buyers are cautious about exchange-rate losses with such a strong South African rand, which has risen by almost 100% against the dollar since January 2002. After all the ostriches, impalas, kudu, warthogs, springbok, giraffes, hippos, zebras and waterbuck are sold, the auction has raised $1.5 million, well down on last year's $3.3 million, but a sign that conservation efforts are working. Says Gaisford: "As people stock their farms, demand is bound to go down." I decide a straightforward approach...