Word: lacroix
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...Lacroix and the others burst theatrically on the scene at prescribed intervals and cause much talk, but most of their ideas die immediately. The ones that catch on are often improved, not debased, by the nonfamous designers who modify them for the public...[F]ashion is an art created by its wearers...and our sense of this primary truth has only lately been obscured by the famous fame of designers...
...also has all the power. His control of the French conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton has made him the king of luxury goods. Over the past decade or so, Arnault has put particular energy into high-end fashion, acquiring the houses of Dior, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy and Kenzo. If you've already made your first few billion, it is a dream kingdom. Lately, the irreverent Women's Wear Daily is calling him the Pope of Fashion...
...known as a tough boss; if he indulges the Gallianos on the creative side, he is whipping the production side, taking advantage of all the available back-room synergies in manufacturing and distribution. For instance, Lacroix's Bazar line is manufactured by Kenzo; Jungle, Kenzo's perfume, is made by the Givenchy factory; and Vuitton's first perfume is being concocted by Guerlain, another LVMH firm. The principle is to control costs rigorously, then spend a fortune on advertising...
McQueen should have a lot of time to make the adjustment. Christian Lacroix, the most accomplished of the LVMH designers, hasn't earned a sou for LVMH in 10 years. That may change soon; his very young Bazar line is breaking into the black. Lacroix, whose atelier is the only one Arnault started from scratch, is a sharp observer of his boss: "He needs to be convinced in his eye and his mind--it is essential." As to Arnault the businessman, Lacroix echoes the common opinion: "He loves the new, he loves to astonish and to be first with something...
...pianist; he practices twice a week, still learning new pieces. His wife Helene is a concert pianist who has just finished a Canadian tour. "We once gave a concert together," Bernard recalls. "But once was enough--too much work." Mme. Arnault plays a different sort of duet with Bernard; Lacroix believes that often Arnault sees clothing through her eyes. They go shopping together most Saturdays. Where? At the Dior boutique on the Avenue Montaigne...