Word: lacroix
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...video. He laughed now and then and clapped his hands at the good parts, utterly oblivious to the rock royalty or the clients who could not get his clothes on right. The video was of his latest fashion show, which had triumphed just the day before. And Christian Lacroix was doing what he usually does: he was enjoying himself...
...Lacroix, 37, is the new king of couture. A French newspaper, France Soir, considers him no less than a "messiah." The fashion industry last week honored him for the second time with its most prestigious prize, the Golden Thimble. Since he opened his own couture house a year ago, his ideas have become the most visible in the field, a rare combination of wit, frivolity and knowing thefts from both past designers and the great ages in clothing history. Lacroix is the man whose designs might sport a rude cabbage rose, perhaps on the derriere...
Most of all, Lacroix is the man with the magic paintbrush, who revealed a palette and an ability to mix colors that astounded the industry. The red and orange of his salon are the designer's favorite colors. (Had it been possible, he says, he would have brought the sun and the sea right inside.) It is easy to work with navy and white, but taming vibrant blues, pinks and tans, not to mention swirling prints, requires the eye of an artist...
...spring and summer collection he unveiled last week has many traditional Lacroix touches, if such a short career can have traditions. There are whopping cabbage roses, short lengths and, in the lace-printed fichus, references to Arles, in Lacroix's native Provence. Some expectable hoots were present: bamboo sunglasses, giant hatpins, whimsical buttons. But Lacroix is changing. The collection was better focused than his 1987 offering. And following the advice of his favorite designer, the late Jules-Francois Crahay of Lanvin, he planted some clues to the future. They included high-waisted flowing pants and some variegated lengths...
After the show, Lacroix took over the fabled Opera Comique for a celebration. When the crowd of 800 old pals, press, dandies and punks arrived, they sat down to a 30-minute video of the making of the American Ballet Theater's $350,000 production of Gaite Parisienne, which opened last month in Tampa and is now touring the U.S. The dancing was effervescent, but the stars of the show were the sassy, spectacular costumes served up from the sketch pad of the host. Gaite was a stand-up, cheering hit. After the lights went up, Lacroix joined the crowds...