Word: lacroix
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...Mouy was impressed at once by Lacroix, because of his "complete knowledge of the past, not only in fashion but in art and architecture." Lacroix's charter was to design two collections a year, according to his impulse and vision. No strings were attached, least of all purse strings. His first sketches to the millinery atelier caused shock and consternation. "Sometimes it is necessary to disturb people in order to push forward," he observes. Since he refines his ideas slowly and deliberately, most of today's headliners have antecedents in earlier collections...
...only one pushing pouf this year. Ungaro, Cardin and Lagerfeld, among others, showed versions of the bubble. (Saint Laurent, who was blowing fashionable bubbles when Lacroix was in his grandmother's attic, showed an exquisite but conventional collection.) But not only did Lacroix pioneer the new silhouette, he is ineffably its presiding spirit...
...gleefully exaggerated costumes are not the only stars of a Lacroix extravaganza. Take the music. Not for him the standard melange of rock and wailing chanteuses. At last week's show the models moved to an eclectic assortment of tunes suggested by the show's escapist, vaguely Caribbean theme. The selections ranged from a thrilling recording of zarzuela by Teresa Berganza to a down-home rendition of the old round "Down by the station, Early in the morning/ See the little puffer bellies, All in a row." The room went wild...
There is something intimate about a Lacroix presentation, a revelation of taste and spirit that goes beyond the usual limits of professionalism. In fact, compared with Saint Laurent's aesthetic poise or Lagerfeld's streamlined efficiency, Lacroix's enthusiasm looks not quite grown-up, as if he were engaged in a kind of dress-up game. "I do play at being a couturier," he ! acknowledges with a sigh...
Life will get more serious, and soon. After last week's triumph, Lacroix received substantial offers of backing for his own house, and the temptation to have one's personal logo -- Saint Laurent's initials or Chanel's stark block letters -- is very strong. He will be moving before long into the ready- to-wear field. That means that Lacroix must design two additional collections a year and execute them with restrictions on fabric and detail in order to produce reasonably priced clothes. But the master of folly is not fazed. "I believe it can be done," he says. "Ready...