Word: lagerfeld
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...installation. Tisci may be haute couture's most recent inductee, but he is clearly plugged into the same collective unconscious that informs his long-established colleagues and rivals. Restraint, romanticism and rediscovery were the recurring themes at many of the Paris shows, with designers as diverse as Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano plundering the archives of the brands they helm: Chanel and Dior respectively. What they found was that by concentrating on fabric and stitches and the genius of couture's petits mains (seamstresses), they could revive the sense of drama and romance that once made French fashion so special...
...Karl Lagerfeld is used to being imitated. "Chanel called it flattery," he shrugs. "For me, it's good because it pushes me to things they can't copy." By Chanel, he means Coco, the founder of the label Lagerfeld has headed for 22 years. "They" are spry fashion chains such as Zara and H&M, whose skill at reproducing luxury looks at affordable prices is driving designers to more-difficult-to-emulate extravagance in their ready-to-wear collections. At the recent shows in Milan and Paris, even the most jaded front-row fashionistas leaned forward for a closer look...
...Lagerfeld is laying on the luxury too. "Last season we had a material that cost 100 euros [$134] a meter," he says. And that was for ready-to-wear. But he is playing both ends of the market, designing couture and ready-to-wear for Chanel as well as collaborating with H&M, where last fall he brought his cachet to the masses with collections of T shirts, pants, coats, blazers and sequined jackets, some retailing for under $50. "The most inexpensive things can be well designed," he says. "Instead of paying too much money for something not exciting...
...Karl Lagerfeld is used to being imitated. "Chanel called it flattery," he shrugs. "For me, it's good because it pushes me to things they can't copy." By Chanel, he means Coco, the founder of the label Lagerfeld has headed for 22 years. "They" are the fashion chains, whose skill at reproducing luxury looks at affordable prices is driving designers to new extravagance in their ready-to-wear collections. At the shows in Milan and Paris over the past two weeks, even the most jaded front-row fashionistas leaned forward for a closer look at the swathes of excess...
...dare, and last month seven of the collection's 17 pieces?including Yves B?har's Nest, above, a glowing cyclone suspended by strands of crystal, and Matali Crasset's Plexiglas Sky?were displayed at the Art Basel fair in Miami. All the fixtures are for sale through Swarovski. Karl Lagerfeld already bought one, though at $7,000 and up, the prices cast their own shadow...