Word: lagerfeld
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...selling should be. Karl Lagerfeld?s collection contained none of the key trends seen on the haute couture runways: no corsets, like at Versace, Gaultier and Christian Dior; no cut-outs, as seen at Gaultier and Versace; no buckles a la Valentino and Versace (shockingly, no reference to bondage at all!); but what was there was stunning. The suit Coco Chanel created so many years ago came out looking entirely new, with jackets tucked into skirts and belts slung low on the waist. Jean-Paul Gaultier also did a spectacular job of redoing what he does best. Tuxedoes, a trench...
Fashion has often dipped into the '50s for inspiration, but these days skirts by the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs are looking distinctly fuller and wider. It's now possible to wear a twin set and full pleated skirt without irony. (The poodle skirt, however, is still out of the question.) Auto designers are also beginning to use some of the hallmark motifs of the midcentury cars. Besides the fins planned for the Cadillac, the 1999 Mustang has triangular wind scoops on the side reminiscent of the 1964 model, and Ford is reintroducing the Thunderbird...
Depending on the source, Chanel's return to the fashion world has been variously attributed to falling perfume sales, disgust at what she was seeing in the fashion of the day or simple boredom. All these explanations seem plausible, and so does Karl Lagerfeld's theory of why, this time around, the Chanel suit met such phenomenal success. Lagerfeld--who designs Chanel today and who has turned the company into an even bigger, more tuned-in business than it was before--points out, "By the '50s she had the benefit of distance, and so could truly distill the Chanel look...
When McCartney was installed at the house to much fanfare last year, critics of the move attributed it to her lineage. Chief among the detractors was her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who snapped to Women's Wear Daily, "I think they should have taken a big name. They did--but in music, not fashion." McCartney, despite her age (she is 26), was in fact no novice to garmentmaking. She had attended London's venerable Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the alma mater as well of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen (designers also snatched up to oversee ailing French...
...line also caught the eye of Chloe president Mounir Moufarrige, who was intent on attracting younger customers to the label. Chloe had its heyday during Lagerfeld's tenure in the '60s and '70s, and although the designer returned in 1992, it never managed to regain its cachet. Moufarrige arrived at McCartney's studio in December 1996, pretending to be a Rome retailer. "I was attracted to the level of detail she put in her clothes," says Moufarrige. "And it helped that she did a very good job of convincing me that a 25-year-old and a 45-year...