Word: lagerfeld
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...YEARS THE FANfare that precedes a Paris couture season has consisted mainly of statements from fashion eminences dourly predicting the early demise of the wildly expensive handmade-to-order business. Why then were the spring openings so vibrant, so full of beauty, craft and rich detail? At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld outdid himself with a masterly display of chic invention and exquisite attention to fit; the pick of the supermodel pack were on hand, and they never looked prettier. At Dior, Gianfranco Ferre chose a theme of flowers--surely an invitation to cliche--and turned out a collection with lightness...
Other editors are quick to dismiss this as a nonstory. "I've known Calvin Klein since 1979," says Harper's Bazaar editor in chief Elizabeth Tilberis. "I've known Karl Lagerfeld since 1968. I've known Gianni Versace since 1974. You've grown up with these people, and they'll always be friends. But it absolutely does not affect your editorial judgment or their placement of ads." And how meaningful is one little Chanel outfit presented gratuit to someone who doesn't pay for her clothes anyway? "I have a very generous clothing allowance," says Vogue's editor in chief...
...realm of daytime dresses and suits that Jackie and Audrey most haunted the collections. The biggest surprise came at the Chanel show, its strongest in many seasons. Just a year ago, Lagerfeld's offerings were a hoot-fluffy, puffy microskirts, silly hats, gold chains and logos attached to just about any surface. The designer's about-face is complete. Several of his knee-length suits had no gold trim at all. They were in black or mellow tweeds and looked like something you could invest in-like a car or a computer. Lagerfeld said he was "going back...
...movement is broad-based and a genuine good-news story for both customers and the industry. At the rich and influential house of Chanel, designer Karl Lagerfeld talks of a "new tendency for beauty to combat ugliness." New York designer Isaac Mizrahi observes: "People are in a kind of sobering position. In the '80s it was so incredibly over the top. Now it's about how can we express ourselves and still maintain a certain amount of dignity." Michael Kors, who presented a sleek, sophisticated collection in New York City last week, expresses the fashion industry's new sensitivity...
...strolling along most of the world's runways. Hepburn died in 1993. In March, Givenchy showed his final fall collection in Paris before retiring. The collection was both meticulous and harmonious, reflecting the standards of luxe and craft he has always pursued. Many of 1995's fashion heroes, including Lagerfeld and Versace, took their inspiration from Givenchy. Stung by the consequences of forays into ugliness, they turned to a designer who has always brought grace and charm alive...