Word: lagerfeld
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...house of Chanel has lent its great international cachet to upstart denim. German-born couturier Karl Lagerfeld's romance with the fabric is a weapon in his war against what he calls "the diktats of fashion," whereby certain garments and accessories can be worn only in particular settings -- silk for splendor, denim for fun. In his designs for Chanel, the maestro is mixing up materials -- tweed, denim, grosgrain -- with such sleight of hand that some of his efforts look more formal than his variations on the house's classic...
With patterned tights all the rage, this should be the most colorful summer in a long time. The fall will see cashmere leggings (tights without a foot), in cable knits, wools and especially in velvet. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, French fans of tights, are emphasizing the leg. So is the hot young American designer, Isaac Mizrahi, who dismisses the '80s as a time of "boring, rote, dress-for-success looks with stock-tie blouses, flannel jackets and henny-looking long, drab skirts...
...Karl Lagerfeld, the most aggressive exponent of the skirtless look, had bright, jaunty jackets that were nipped in at the waist. Claude Montana, still smarting from his disastrous debut as Lanvin's couturier in January, produced a rigorous collection dedicated to Andy Warhol. What he took from the painter was Popsicle colors and hard, clean lines. His tops were laser...
...designer today, Kelly blurs the line between fashion and show biz. "I think of myself as a black male Lucille Ball," he says. "I like making people laugh." Indeed, can one imagine the reclusive Yves Saint Laurent skateboarding a la Kelly through Paris' seedier neighborhoods? Picture crusty Karl Lagerfeld nude from the waist up, posing for Vanity Fair, with red buttons over his nipples and 16 satin bows on his pigtails? Such antics have charmed the powerful French fashion press. "Le mignon petit noir Americain," enthused one Paris newspaper -- although in America being called a cute little black would seem...
...with a rush of fresh talent: dazzling designers (like the Missonis), some fine hands (like Gianfranco Ferre) and some naughty boys (like Gianni Versace). But, in Armani, it produced just a | single world beater. Paris, on the other hand, can still offer a wider spectrum: sumptuous Saint Laurent, engaging Lagerfeld, generative Miyake, fast-flash Gaultier, ebullient Patrick Kelly. As ever, it is center stage, the arena on which designers want most to play, especially if they are coming on (like Gigli) or consolidating (like Valentino...