Word: lagerfelds
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...chic. Women were supposed to stride around in stiletto heels, fishnet stockings and microminis -- some of which Vogue featured in colorful versions of rubber and polyvinyl chloride. The same style dominated the spring collections shown in Paris and Milan last month. There were front-slit short skirts from Karl Lagerfeld, gold-mesh biker shorts from Gianfranco Ferre and rhinestone-studded hot pants from the team of Dolce & Gabbana, who acknowledged that their D&G line had been inspired by Jodie Foster's preteen streetwalker in Taxi Driver. Vulgarity, it seems, reigns on the runways...
Designer Geoffrey Beene, who scrupulously avoids ephemera, says, "I wouldn't make fun of women by dressing them as children. It's a trick that has been used by streetwalkers in Paris for years." That does not seem to bother other rulers of fashion. Karl Lagerfeld likes the style, though he thinks it looks best on women with "runway bodies...
...Welcome to the Toon Age of worldwide retailing, an age when Warner's fearsome Tasmanian Devil becomes a cult figure for kids, dads and inner-city gang members; when no little girl feels chic without her Princess Jasmine dress (from the smash Disney film Aladdin); when Paris designer Karl Lagerfeld ornaments the classic Chanel hat with impish Mickey Mouse ears. Hollywood's animated ephemera are Big Business everywhere: in the Disney themelands and at Warner's Six Flags parks, at chains like K Mart and Toys "R" Us, in sports-stadium concession stands (Michael Jordan, meet Bugs Bunny...
When the venerable house of Chanel shows a black fur hat the size and shape of Mickey Mouse's ears, as it did this spring, something is wrong. Lagerfeld's other japes included fuzzy fake-fur skirts shaped unmistakably like muffs that barely covered the buttocks. He has made the classic Chanel suit look tartier by the year, a crude parody of itself. At this point it would be preferable -- and more courageous -- to retire it altogether; versions of the design go back to the '20s, so the suit may have run its course. Lagerfeld has also vulgarized the Chanel...
...Lagerfeld was afflicted with the fuzzy-wuzzies, but he was hardly the only one: mohair will be hard to avoid this fall. In the U.S. several younger houses -- Vivienne Tam, Isaac Mizrahi, Ghost -- used it. Ralph Lauren, in a collection that relocated his country look to Sherwood Forest in the Middle Ages, featured it in rare long skirts. In his CK line, Calvin Klein had bunny minis in furry pastels...