Word: lagerfelds
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...Lacroix is the new superstar of fashion, the darling of last week's Paris couture shows, extolled by the press and praised by competitors. Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel calls him a "breath of fresh air." Giorgio Armani, whose severe, classic designs are the antithesis of Lacroix's, wishes him luck. "Welcome," he enthuses, "to Lacroix with his fresh follies...
...greatest designers of this century were Americans--Claire McCardell and Charles James--but, truth be told, there is not a designer on the American scene now who can match Armani's bold finesse, never mind the inventiveness of Issey Miyake, the deluxe grace of Yves Saint Laurent or Karl Lagerfeld, the Zen funkiness of Yohji Yamamoto. The best American design tends to be generic, not designer labeled. It would be hard to find, for instance, a designer who has been influenced by Louis Dell'Olio, but it would be equally impossible to find an Italian leather blouson that...
...book like Couture is irresistible to an amateur fashion handicapper. The author gushes a bit over Karl Lagerfeld, a cheeky, fluent idea man, and finds nearly invisible depth in the creations of Hardy Amies, a reliable but stodgy British tailor. The book is hobbled by rather arbitrary categories she imposes to organize her designers: artists (Fortuny, Mary McFadden), purists (Chanel, Vionnet), architects (Balenciaga, Charles James), realists (Norman Norell and Miyake, of all people). Also, although it may be patrician not to talk about money, the vast fortunes made by the likes of Saint Laurent and Lauren go unrecorded, making...
Milbank has a fine eye for social comment. Her heart may belong to purists like Madeleine Vionnet or wits like Lagerfeld, but who are the most influential designers? High on her list would be Molyneux, Adrian, Givenchy and Lauren--because of the way they dressed show-biz stars. Molyneux popularized the slinky chic of the '30s with his costumes for Gertrude Lawrence in Private Lives. Adrian, a West Coast designer snubbed by the fashion establishment, camouflaged Joan Crawford's broad shoulders by exaggerating them and produced the dominant look of the '40s. When Jacqueline Kennedy brought elegant dressing...
Others were less discriminating. "For students it was a very good fashion show," said Karin Ohana, a Parisian student who currently works for the Karl Lagerfeld...