Word: lamb
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...Hang a lamb chop in the window," was the advice legendary hostess Perle Mesta gave those who wanted to make a place for themselves in the capital. Craig Spence, a would-be power broker with a taste for Edwardian suits, took that advice to heart when he arrived in Washington in the late 1970s and hurled himself into high-intensity party-giving at his elegant town house in the fashionable Kalorama section of town...
...simmering sauce of endives, smoked pancetta and double cream fills the wood-beamed Venetian kitchen with its aroma. Bits of baby lamb are soaking up the flavor of juniper berries and white wine. Strings of homemade tonnarelli are drying nearby. Standing over her restaurant-size range, Marcella Hazan looks with mock astonishment at six blushing students. "You don't cook? What do you do? Starve?" It is her standard line when Americans complain that they don't have time to prepare real meals. "I despair," she says, waving a sauce-laden wooden spoon...
...accent is equally Gallic at L'Ecole, the aptly named restaurant of the French Culinary Institute in New York City's SoHo district. A recent $18 prix fixe lunch began with a light Roquefort souffle, which was followed by a moist salmon fillet in chervil sauce, a delicate lamb ragout and a green salad, and ended with a textbook-perfect creme brulee...
...C.I.A. draw, however, is the French cuisine in the Escoffier Room. The prix fixe $40 dinner features such classics as poached Dover sole stuffed with artichokes and tomatoes, and roasted rack of lamb on ratatouille. The 90- seat restaurant is sometimes booked three months in advance and boasts a four-star rating from the Mobil Travel Guide. Over a Kir Royale aperitif, bemused diners can enjoy a seminar in progress. On view in the glassed-in kitchen, a dozen nervous young chefs in tall toques bump into one another as they peel, poach and broil their way through the evening...
Despite occasionally receiving a low grade for an acrid vinaigrette or undercooked chicken, the students get kicks of their own. Henry Hirsch, 26, sometimes forgets that there is a world beyond the kitchen door as he sautes lamb over the hot stove at L'Ecole. "You get sick of the food back here," says Hirsch, a photographer who wants to open a restaurant of his own. "Then you look out into the dining room, and people are actually enjoying it." Especially at those prices...