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Some of the most satisfying of all supersoups are American: New England chowders, Louisiana gumbo, Philadelphia pepper pot, California cioppino, for which Ivens has traditional prescriptions. Ivens also contributes such variants as lamb and split pea soup (adding a Middle Eastern flavor with mint, dill and yogurt), a soup of short ribs and lentils, and another made with beef and beans. A summer classic rarely seen on U.S. menus is Portugal's caldo verde, a delicate blend of kale, potatoes and sausage. One chapter is devoted to vegetable potages, including the soupe au pistou of southern France, Italian garbanzo...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: The Old Cuisine Wins New Allure | 11/21/1983 | See Source »

...version of New England boiled dinner, and carbonada criolla, beef stew served in a pumpkin. One notable entry is a veal stew from Jerez, Spain's sherry capital, redolent of fino; a dish from Italy is called maiale affogato, meaning drowned pork, in white wine and chicken broth. Lamb stews, to many are the most glorious of all. Main-Course selections worth adding to the cook's repertoire include an exotic Persian-style khoreshe with dried fruits, nuts and split peas; Italian abbacchio alia ciociara, in which the lamb is braised in cognac with ham; and Greek...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: The Old Cuisine Wins New Allure | 11/21/1983 | See Source »

...subtle series of inviting vegetable preparations that could well accompany Western dishes: mushrooms and potatoes cooked with garlic and ginger, spicy green beans, sweet and sour okra, eggplant "cooked in pickling style." Better yet, serve them with the great main dishes of India. Memorable recipes, including several in which lamb replaces hard-to-find goat, range from Persian-derived shahi korma ("royal" lamb or beef with a creamy almond sauce) to Kashmiri red lamb stew. Other party entrees include Mughlai lamb-and-rice casserole, chicken with almonds and sultanas, and easy-to-make haddock baked in yogurt sauce. Jaffrey describes...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: The Old Cuisine Wins New Allure | 11/21/1983 | See Source »

Specialties that deserve an honorable place on the American table include kulebyaka, the glorious salmon pie described by Chekhov as "shameless in its nakedness, a temptation to sin"; pirozhki, the more plebeian meat or vegetable pies; kidney and dill pickle soup; Azerbaidzhan lamb patties; veal stew with cherries; Ukrainian honey cake; smetannik, a rich pie of sour cream, jam and nuts; and the celebrated Guriev kasha, a thickened compote of brandied fruits. To round out a Russian banquet, Goldstein provides instructions for a dozen deliciously flavored vodkas, and with them a toast to the meal: Eshte, eshte na zdorovye...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: The Old Cuisine Wins New Allure | 11/21/1983 | See Source »

...Credulity," noted Charles Lamb, "is the man's weakness, but the child's strength." The sisters had no trouble convincing elders that they could converse with the spirits of Benjamin Franklin and John C. Calhoun. Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune, endorsed their honesty; Leah Fish, an enterprising promoter, moved them from parlors to crowded lecture halls. By 1860, twelve years after the first triumph of the little Foxes, Humorist Artemus Ward wrote in his patented regional dialect, "My naburs is mourn harf crazy on the new fangled idear about Sperrets...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: Ghost Stories | 11/14/1983 | See Source »

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