Word: lanvin
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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Some French fashion chiefs are indignant. Robert Ricci complains that the assertive American-type perfumes should "only appeal to jet-setters who want to shock." Lanvin's marketing director, Jean-Louis Delpuech, scoffs that U.S. perfume makers have tended "to go 'down market' to a type of woman who demands more smell for her money." But others are more philosophical about the demand for perfumes with staying power. Robert Young, president of Yves Saint Laurent perfumes, traces the taste for strong fragrances to the same craving for identity that makes people want designer names on their clothes...
...owned perfume firms exceeded $1 billion last year, compared with $737 million for the French. Girding themselves against further U.S. competition, many older French perfume houses have sought mergers with larger European corporations, and a long moribund national perfume-promoting organization called Prestige has been revived. Says Bernard Lanvin, head of the family-owned firm that bears his name: "Until recently we were content to compete among ourselves. Now we're closing ranks...
Cardin included in his show a strapless black outfit with a satin belt, while Guy Laroche took off with a multicolor batwing evening dress. From Lanvin came a sheer-topped gown with delicate pastel embroidery, and from Courrèges, a skirt and blouse combination laden with ruffles. For most of high fashion's critics, clients, and trend watchers, the week's main feature was the Saint Laurent collection. Paris' No. 1 designer, who launched the costume revolution with his Russian, gypsy, Cossack fashions of 1976, had presaged a return to modernity with his ready-to-wear...
...house of Lanvin whipped up a gold lame coronation gown, highlighted by 935,000 sequins and gold pieces, for Empress Catherine. Cost...
Other designers have also produced variations on the Oriental theme. For the House of Lanvin-which celebrated the 50th anniversary of the creation of its Arpege perfume with a special showing of six dresses designed by Jeanne Lanvin in the 1920s-Jules-Francois Crahay paid homage to Asia with thick, quilted Tibetan coats, Mongolian jackets, and brilliantly colored folkloric ensembles. Even the names of the clothes were redolent of the enigmatic East -Petrograd, Katmandu, Marrakech and Salome...