Word: laurent
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Pierre Bergé, partner and protector of Yves Saint Laurent, peeks over the battlements at the enemy force below and, as if panicking, fires off a salvo before he has found his aim. "Give me one piece of clothing, one fashion statement that Armani has made that has truly influenced the world...
...temperament is understandable. Bergé has a legend to burnish and a business to run. He sounds like a man who knows strong competition when he sees it taking a stroll down the boulevard, decked out, more than likely, in some splendiferous Armani assemblage. The fact is, Saint Laurent remains the pale eminence of high fashion, in part because of his undisputed creative coups over the years, in part because of his huge volume of business and the relentless mythologizing of the fashion press. The fact is also that while Saint Laurent's contributions have been generative and historic...
...designed by Armani." Snaps Bergé: "I'm in the fashion business, and even I can't tell you what an Armani man or woman is." That is just the point. The fact that it got past Bergé so easily may indicate that the Saint Laurent enterprise has lost its sure touch with a significant-and significantly younger-portion of the market, newly moneyed and sartorially independent, who do not want "a look...
Leather is expensive: a Lauren prairie skirt costs $1,000; a leather blazer from Yves St. Laurent also carries a $1,000 tag. But leather jackets with embroidered eagles, by Parisian Designer Claude Montana, priced at up to $2,400, sold out in two weeks last fall at Bloomingdale's in New York. Retailers report that the priciest items sell best. Alan Bilzerian, owner of two stores in Boston and Worcester, Mass., claims: "The customer wants one incredible piece. This will become a piece from the '80s, the way a Bauhaus or Corbusier was a piece from...
...children's literature, notes that the first three books in Babar's Anniversary Album (Random House; $12.95) were written by a young, dying father who supplied Babar and the other sensitive pachyderms with a philosophy as warm as their habitat. Jean de Brunhoff's son Laurent wrote the last three works with no falling-off of humor or warmth. Brunhoff pére et fils double-page compositions, replete with elephantine architecture, landscapes and jokes, have the logic of fantasy and the color of gift wrapping...