Word: laurent
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...often accompanied by boots that climbed well above the knee. In between there was often a sort of apron that resembled a vestigial skirt or, more fancifully, a superwide belt. Only a few classic houses featured any skirts in the usual sense of the word, and only Yves Saint Laurent covered the knee in a few outfits...
...Saint Laurent managed to dominate the news in the semiannual pret-a-porter bazaar -- clothes that are manufactured in quantity at much lower prices than the hand-sewed fantasies of haute couture. It was, however, not his fluent, confident designs but his health that made headlines: the fragile designer was hospitalized a few days before his show. His partner, Pierre Berge, issued a statement blaming nervous exhaustion and emphasizing to an AIDS-ravaged industry that no infectious disease was involved...
Though Saint Laurent's 1990 offerings were inspired largely by highlights of his old collections, most of the other designers were looking closely at various costume spectacles during France's bicentennial last summer. This fall the thing most likely to cover the knee will be the hem of a grand swirling cape; almost every designer had his models sweeping the runways with them...
...second thread running through the shows came right out of the headlines on Eastern Europe and the Soviet republics. Folklore abounded, and a little of it goes a long way. Saint Laurent reminded everyone that he got there first by starting his presentation with a reprise of his famous "rich peasant" couture collection of the mid-'70s. Ungaro's sumptuous clothes also paid homage to that look. The simplest pseudo peasant was Kenzo, who, with his customary lack of pretension, threw together vivid knit patterns and topped them off with enormous babushkas...
...Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche collection came last, with masterful ease and variety if not innovation. The high point was a Scotch symphony of plaids ranging from sporty separates to opulent evening costumes, a Highland fling of color. In recent years it has become a form of rude sport to guess how the designer would look when he took his bow -- lean and fit or pale and puffy. But when he was absent, the crowd filed out subdued and thoughtful. This rich, elaborate kingdom misses its king...