Word: laurents
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...show, most of Rykiel's line did not rely on shock value but on the fact that her clothes were imaginative, brilliantly colored and practical. She is the most womanly of designers, who recognizes that "every woman must create her own ambience; it is not I or Yves St. Laurent but the woman who has to create herself and be a unique person." She adds: "I make my clothes for real, living women of our times?not movie stars ?who have to be with children, and men, and go to lunches, receptions, bistros, dinners at Maxim's and business...
...would jump for joy the way a male model does in one ad--over nine pairs of new shoes in a full page spread. And there are the ubiquitous pictures of a Calvin Klein damsel in satiny "at-home" clothes or a Matisse-like line drawing publicizing Yves St. Laurent's stylish scraps...
...Haute couture is opera. It is dreams and phantoms and magic," says Yves Saint Laurent, the Sun King of fashion. So it was last week at the showings of the French couture collections for autumn: high fashion had indeed become pure theater. Vanished was the sleek, pantsuited look that Saint Laurent himself once institutionalized, and his revolutionary peasant look of last year was transmuted into costumes more sumptuous, more fantastical, more opulent -and more expensive (typically $3,000 to $10,000 per outfit)-than ever before. Romanticism-from Saint Laurent's Oriental visions to Marc Bohan...
ORIENTAL OPULENCE. Saint Laurent's new operatic visions have moved eastward from Russia to the plains of Mongolia and the war councils of 13th century China. Mandarins and coolies alike are swathed in satin and silk, tasseled and tufted, brocaded and beaded. A collector of Oriental art, Saint Laurent has used for his clothes the colors of his objets d'art-jade green, Chinese bronze, and the rich reds and shiny blacks of lacquer. Soft opiate grays that add a smoky mystery to the costumes complement a perfume that he will introduce next year-named, appropriately, Opium...
...sense, Saint Laurent has designed the emperor's new clothes. His soft, flowing dresses, characterized by full sleeves and a loose obi caressing the hips, are adaptations of angular Chinese designs. Over these dresses or over satin pants are worn gargantuan wraps-a peplum coat sewn with real gold thread cloth, costing over $200 a meter, or a massive Genghis Khan jacket made of iridescent brocades and lined with fur. Saint Laurent set off his ensembles with high-heeled boots and a variety of hats, including pillbox and coolie styles...