Word: laurents
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...Y.S.L. to come was foreshadowed last spring, when he displayed a ready-to-wear collection that embodied in less expensive form the essence of the couture show. Thus reversing the traditional cycle of a high-fashion collection followed by a mass-manufactured version of the same clothes, Saint Laurent's top-line show echoed-and amplified-his earlier collection. This strategy, rather than the designs themselves, was the real revolution. The very same week that fashion writers were trumpeting the glories of Saint Laurent's haute couture, the ready-to-wear clothes were showing...
...generates for Y.S.L.-or Pierre Cardin or Dior-helps boost sales of the entire line of products, from soap to wallpaper, that is marketed under a fashion-house name. As a conglomerateur, with 4,450 employees worldwide, 58 products on the market and annual sales of $200 million, Saint Laurent can afford to subsidize the rich who buy his $5,000 gowns...
...perennially best-dressed Mrs. William McCormick ("Deeda") Blair Jr., of Washington and international society, said in Paris, "It's not every day of my life I'd want to look like a Ukrainian peasant!" (She has not yet put down any kopeks for one of Saint Laurent's new creations...
Some of the bitterest attacks came from Saint Laurent's compatriots, who have a fairly good history of deploring innovation in the arts. "I'm a friend of Yves," expostulated Le Figaro's fashion editor Viviane Ch. Greymour. "But I didn't congratulate him on this collection! It's folklore, a show, theater, dreams." Another complaint-as if buyers of haute couture rode the subway -was that Yves' cloaks and skirts are "too wide to pass through the Metro turnstiles." The unkindest cut came from a jury voting during the week of the showing...
...reverse chauvinism: anything the Americans go wild for is automatically suspect. The corollary: the French have come around to buying the Matisses, Braques and Picassos that American art collectors started snapping up 70 years ago. Nor is that too extreme a comparison. Critic after critic referred to Saint Laurent's originals as investments. Women's Wear Daily called them "instant museum pieces...