Word: leathering
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...with a buzzer next to it marked Oakwood Books. It doesn't look like much--it's next door to a mini-mall--but behind it is an enterprise that earns in the neighborhood of $20 million annually. Its sole asset fits in a comfy chair at a red-leather-covered conference table. The asset is good-natured and at ease with himself. With his smooth Southern accent, listening to him talk is like sniffing bourbon...
...equally commercial collection of slouchy athletic-inspired dresses over neon-bright fishnet stockings. Like Galliano, Gaultier has never been at a loss for ideas. And he celebrated his 30th anniversary in fashion by marching every one of those bad-boy notions down his runway--from the prescient 1976 leather motorcycle-jacket look to Madonna's cone-bra dress. Every look came off as current, which is why Gaultier is so good. He knows how to break the rules and keep his clothes classic. Fashion could do worse when looking for a new engine: create that which is at once shockingly...
DIED. Tamara Dobson, 59, Amazonian model-actress who created one of the blaxploitation genre's most memorable women--the Corvette-driving, martial-arts-loving title character in the film Cleopatra Jones; of complications from pneumonia and multiple sclerosis; in Baltimore, Md. With her flashy style--huge Afro, big hats, leather-trimmed fur coats--Cleopatra was, in the words of the drug traffickers she battled, "10 miles of bad road." Before her career ebbed in the '80s, the 6-ft. 2-in. Dobson went on to appear in other films of the genre, notably the women-in-prison film Chained Heat...
...tastemaker behind Bottega Veneta opened his beautiful show with a paper cotton dress and proceeded with a litany of shellacked and smocked cottons that were done in romantic shades of dusty pink and mauve. And at Marni athletic-style mesh was thrown into the mix of shiny patent leather and matte cotton...
...Monday in Milan was a day for big brands. Brioni made a daring splash with a collection the designer Cristina Ortiz called "OrganiCouture." There were some interesting shapes and fabrics: oversized white leather overalls, a metallic (a big trend this week) bronze trench, and hand-stitched silver staples on seams. Ortiz is talented, it's just a question of what this house of tailoring tradition wants...