Word: leatherizing
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...intelligence center?where a dozen engineers hunch over computer screens, carefully devising the patterns for each shoe?some entail as many as 70 different pieces. Down the hall, the modelist carves up each style's last by hand, a technique few manufacturers actually have in-house. Finally, the leather pieces will be chosen by the company expert, Antonio Ripani, who presides over more than 20 million sq. ft. of hides?calfskin, anaconda, gazelle, ostrich, crocodile?in a giant storeroom alongside the factory. After the patterns are cut by hand with an X-Acto knife, the shoes will be stitched...
...Diego will one day go into politics. He sits on the board of a number of companies?including Ferrari, Maserati, Banca Nazionale del Lavoro and LVMH (which owns a 3.5% stake in Tod's)?but insists that shoemaking is his only work interest. "My job is to touch leather and create brands," he says. "And then more time for my family...
...brother working at a footwear company, before hitting Hollywood in the 1920s and opening the Hollywood Boot Shop. There his cowboy boots and Roman sandals were often used on movie sets, and soon celebrities came calling for custom orders. But it wasn't until 1936, when the use of leather and steel was restricted in Italy, that genius really struck. Desperate to replace the rationed materials, Ferragamo came up with the idea of filling the heels of his shoes with cork and wood, creating the wedge. The platform sandal soon followed, becoming a favorite among leading ladies, including Lauren Bacall...
WITH THE REOPENING of its New York City flagship store on Madison Avenue, above, Swiss leather-goods label Bally celebrates 155 years in business. To mark the occasion, the company has mounted an exhibition of shoes from the Bally Museum as well as historical images from the 1800s. Bally has also created a limited-edition shoe collection that will be sold exclusively at the store. The shoes, inspired by models from the '30s and '50s, feature handmade signature details such as leather piping and perforation. Says CEO Marco Franchini: "Our archive has served as inspiration to many designers...
...YEARS, ROBERT RICH HAS WORKED from the basement of the Marc Jacobs store in New York City. His tiny office is plastered with photographs and magazine clippings of famous clients?Sofia Coppola, Hilary Swank, Winona Ryder. Amid the beautiful clutter, the only discernible piece of furniture is a white leather sofa that looks a lot like a couch you would find in a shrink's office?which is fitting, since Rich is a therapist of sorts. His official title at Marc Jacobs is director of public relations for stores?he decides what to buy for the label...