Word: leathers
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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CINEMA Tom Cruise in a hell-for-leather frontier epic...
...refusal to assimilate. He promotes artists whose speech, dress and demeanor reflect the in-your-face bravado of black urban adolescents and the rebellious fantasies of those in the suburbs. Taking direct cues from his audience, Simmons told Run-DMC to wear their dark glasses and black leather suits onstage and LL Cool J to retain his slouchy, bucket- shaped Kangol hat. He also encouraged Public Enemy to be politically controversial and BWP (Bytches with Problems) to be sexually explicit...
...above the ankles. Whereas Perugia's shoes are more exquisitely balanced and Vivier's have more graceful lines (he made Ferraris for the feet), Ferragamo was the great improviser and engineer. He thought with his hands. He never made drawings of shoes, but constructed them by pulling pieces of leather over wooden models of feet. Those were his rough drafts...
...Ferragamo, necessity was the spur to invention. In the 1930s and '40s, metal and leather, the staples of shoemaking, were scarce in wartime Italy, so he experimented with what came to hand -- straw, raffia, bark, even fishskin. Another local material, cork, launched one of his greatest inventions, the wedge. The precursor of the familiar wedged heel was a shoe with four corks from local wine bottles sewn together to make a heel. Later in the 1940s, he made uppers of cellophane, after noticing how strong and durable the material was when he twisted a bunch of candy wrappers...
They are joined by a motley crew of transvestites, transsexuals, presidential candidates (George Bush and "Some Tired Old Liberal"), heartless right to lifers, leather clad feminists and a bevy of other ingratiating characters (35 in totem), all played by a very versatile 12 member ensemble...