Word: leek
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...wrote the celebrated Brick Lane, gets the kitchen just right: the crushing pace, the fistfights, the grills and griddles and salamanders, the guy who's always walking around with a leek hanging out of his fly. But her interest in it is somewhat different from, say, Sheehan's. For Ali it is - at the risk of sending you screaming back to high school English class - a microcosm of Britain, a country that is also, not coincidentally, having a midlife crisis. The kitchen is a strange crossroads zone where high culture and manual labor collide. It's radically globalized and borderless...
...symphony. "Give me a violin that's only average, and I'll still be capable of making it cry," he says. "But give me a Stradivarius, and I will go further still ..." To create his endive sorbet with coquelicot vinegar, artichoke and truffle raviole, or cinnamon-grilled leek velouté, Gagnaire draws from the 1,700 vegetable and fruit varieties grown in nearby Carrières-sur-Seine by renowned market gardener Joël Thiébault...
...true foodies. A dish like slow-roasted fillet of Wagyu beef with roasted veal sweetbreads, caramelized carrot purée and a sherry vinegar gastrique may be a mouthful to order, but every bite confirms the brilliance of its conception. Plainer fare such as wild mushroom arancini with leek purée, white asparagus emulsion and cep vinaigrette showcase the intense flavors of locally grown vegetables. Hall says: "I let the ingredients speak for themselves." Luckily it's in a language even linguistically challenged bohemians will understand. The results: pure poetry, and worth braving the odd bull for. www.casablanca-gaucin.com
...Jetsons. Crab chowder consists of a tiny but menacing soft-shell crab perched atop a lump of chilled crabmeat and black caviar. On the side, four plastic syringes are stacked between slender silver barbell magnets. Each syringe is filled with a tasty soup: Peruvian potato, cream, carrot, garlic leek. Squeeze one into your mouth, crunch into the crab and move on to the next. This is but a single dish of the 5-, 7-, 10-and 19-course tasting menus, which range in price from $50 to $160 a person. Quirks are de rigueur in this stark warehouse-district...
...server said that the scaloppini ($22) was “to die for.” She was right. The first bite of veal made my eyes widen and eyelashes flutter. The salty tang of capers and lemon in a peppery beurre noisette was balanced by a creamy potato, leek and asiago gratin, served in a little inverted casserole with a crispy crust and highlighted with a roasted red pepper relish...