Word: lelong
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Dates: during 1920-1929
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...Summer fabrics, very simple for day wear, with a startling revival of bright ginghams and even calicos. 7) Hats are even smaller and sleeker, many brimless and exposing the forehead. 8) Colors, brighter, with contrasting red and black in the ascendant, plus many new shades: pewter, menthe, lucifer, Capudne, Lelong blue and green. . . . 9) Fads red hair, tennis trousers for women, pajamas at luncheon.* naughtily named knee length nightskirts: "Dream of Me," "Alarm Clock," "Midnight Tonight," "Turn Your Head. . . ." French mannequins this year have dropped exaggerated posturing, are seeking to resemble la type Americaine introduced in 1924 by Jean Patou...
...Golden Horseshoe boxes had been sold since last season but there had been private rearrangements. Clarence H. Mackay was missing. So was Clarence Dillon. Fashion-writers noted that gowns dip in the back this year, fit snugly over the hips. One rhapsodized over a Lanvin taffeta, another over a Lelong tulle. Such pomp and circumstance meant little to Mr. Gatti. Hands in pockets, he sauntered in occasionally to where standees listened rapt to Montemezzi's music. On their enthusiasm depends more the success of his twenty-first season...
...Lelong. At the head of the organization of a Paris dressmaking house is the designer. Under the designer comes the première vendeuse (chief saleswoman), assisted by a seconde and numerous other vendeuses. Heads of workrooms are premières mains, with general supervision over the training of the apprentices, the 14-or-15-year-old girls who come as midinettes to learn the history of textiles and of art, the tricks of designing, cutting, fitting, sewing. Finished models are shown by mannequins who think the opportunity of meeting British and U. S. millionaires enough compensation for tiny salaries...
...this organization, Lucien Lelong brought an Oxford education, a vigorous personality. Most efficient of all couturiers, Lelong housed himself in a 9-story building, passing in Paris for a skyscraper, and proceeded to produce 1,000 models a year under 20th century working conditions. Lelong is popular with U. S. buyers. Particularly popular are his three perfumes : "A," for the exotic woman (or the unexotic woman who, acting out of character, is attending an exotic affair); "B," the perfume pour le sport; "C," the delicate scent...
...Lucien Lelong: Gowns of intricate cut, moulding and revealing the curved lines of the figure, executed in subdued light shades. Said M. Lelong, last week: "Woman returns to the elegant, poised, long-limbed, distinguished figure. She abandons with relief the bony, jazzy flapper figure, evoked by the aftermath of War hysteria...