Word: lelong
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Dates: during 1940-1949
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...Market. Increased material and labor costs, plus higher taxes, had put the squeeze on Paris designers. Although Lucien Lelong blamed ill health when he closed his shop last month, friends thought his health could have held up if his firm had not-like many others-been operating in the red. Couturiers agreed that survival could be assured only by establishing a rich new market...
Amid all this bustle, it remained for a 23-year-old U.S. musicomedy to attract, fortnight ago, the season's glossiest first-night audience and its loudest cheers. Tout Paris-Marlene Dietrich, Mistinguett, Jean Gabin, Lucien Lelong, many another-swarmed to No, No, Nanette, stayed on for 18 curtain calls...
...neckline was definitely down: most noteworthy feature was the "Restoration bosom," in both evening and daytime dresses. Lucien Lelong hailed it as the "rediscovery of the shape of the body, emphasizing the bust." His black crepe daytime dress, Cythère, cost $360, and his evening dress, "Amphytrite," looked like a revival of the old hourglass figure. Lelong dubbed it the mermaid figure...
Since the world of fashion cannot, at the moment, visit Paris, Paris intends to visit the world. Last week 35 leading couturieres (Schiaparelli, Lucille, Lucien Lelong, et al.) were showing off their latest concoctions in advance of an international tour. The 200 models (soon to visit the U.S., Britain and South America) were 18-inch wire dolls. Ace Artists Jean Cocteau and Christian ("Bébé") Berard painted the miniature sets. To help revive its fashion industry, Paris launched the show with full fanfare-in the Louvre...
...lasted three nights. The first night, a sort of benefit running to diamonds rather than dog tags, was the biggest social event in Paris since the liberation. In a whirl of color, General Joseph-Pierre Koenig, the British Ambassador and Lady Diana Duff Cooper, Prince Achille Murat. Lucien Lelong and a host of other celebrities drank champagne at $30 a bottle, netted the Canteen almost...