Word: lelong
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Parading smartly about the U. S. these past few weeks has been the elegant figure of M. Lucien Lelong, French War hero and member of that small coterie of Paris couturiers who rule the world of feminine fashion. M. Lelong has been in the U. S. frankly drumming up trade for his dresses and for his new perfume Impromptu which now shares honors with dress shields, bathing caps and fingernail polish in many a corner drugstore. An up & coming rival of M. Lelong is M. Marcel Rochas in both Paris fashions and perfume...
...women are wealthier and, according to no less an authority than M. Lelong, better dressed than any others in the world. Therefore they are one of the best markets for Paris dressmakers. But to open U. S. branches-that was something formidable, entailing a little risk and certainly much courage. Let M. Rochas do it, and then, if he succeeds and is not démodé, certainly others will follow...
...Exposition dresses too breathtakingly extreme, fantastic and sumptuous to be worn by one woman in a million, show them mostly on featureless-faced mannequins rough-hewn of pinkish beige plaster, some as disproportioned as surrealism. Barely practical are the clothes shown by Paris conservatives such as Alix, Worth and Lelong. Scorning plaster women, Lanvin has draped two gowns of medieval inspiration and some handsome furs on a gigantic horse and an heraldic lion. Rebel Schiaparelli, outdoing even this, has flung a plaster female stark naked.* bottom down on a beach rug of artificial flowers, tossed the costume on a beach...
...Legion of Honor. Next is a large group of comparatively young houses or old ones which have passed their prime. Although they may startle the trade almost any year with a new trend, they are not at present the most dominant influence in fashion. Preeminent among them are Lelong, said to be the best organized house in Paris, Chanel, Bruyere, Goupy, Louiseboulanger, Jane Regny, Lucille Paray, Martial & Armand, Marcel Rochas, Maggy Rouff, Vera Borea, Alix, Dilkusha, Jodelle and the redoubtable Jean Patou...
...Summer fabrics, very simple for day wear, with a startling revival of bright ginghams and even calicos. 7) Hats are even smaller and sleeker, many brimless and exposing the forehead. 8) Colors, brighter, with contrasting red and black in the ascendant, plus many new shades: pewter, menthe, lucifer, Capudne, Lelong blue and green. . . . 9) Fads red hair, tennis trousers for women, pajamas at luncheon.* naughtily named knee length nightskirts: "Dream of Me," "Alarm Clock," "Midnight Tonight," "Turn Your Head. . . ." French mannequins this year have dropped exaggerated posturing, are seeking to resemble la type Americaine introduced in 1924 by Jean Patou...