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...with its adventurous Panamanian-Mediterranean menu. You can sample rich ice creams and sorbets - from basil to Earl Grey - at Granclement, tel: (507) 228 0737; browse through intricately carved wooden crafts at Karavan Gallery, tel: (507) 228 5161; and take home one-of-a-kind pieces by local artists from Casa Gongora, tel: (507) 506 5836, a gallery and museum in one of the Casco's oldest surviving buildings, which dates from...
...Marche is an outstanding area for fresh food, and the kitchens are kitted out for some serious dining, with thoughtful extras like exquisite local olive oil. Though Borgo Tranquillo (www.borgotranquillo.com) is perfect for soaking in the sun, guests are as likely to be lured by year-round mountain-biking, truffle-hunting and palazzo-visiting. And because each apartment has a striking wood-burning stove, every busy day out can be followed by some cozy tranquillo time...
...Prenzlauer Berg has gone from being one of the cheapest neighborhoods in Berlin to one of the most expensive, with rents increasing tenfold. At the weekly Saturday farmers market on Kollwitzplatz Square, a stand offers currywurst (sausage with curry sauce), a local specialty, with 22-karat gold leaf and a side of french fries with truffle mayonnaise. The cafés surrounding the square are crowded with attractive young people sipping macchiatos. And pretty girls in lavender outfits hand out organic apples alongside brochures promoting an "urban village" called Marthashof currently in construction nearby. "Quality of life without compromises," promises...
...Technau's demonstration was part of a wave of protests that began last summer, aimed at a group of people that local magazine Zitty has dubbed Porno-Hippie-Swabian, referring to the inhabitants of Swabia, a region in southern Germany. "It's a deliberately exaggerated negative stereotype for people who come to Berlin from the wealthy southern German states and buy expensive apartments in Prenzlauer Berg," explains Technau. Several anti-gentrification groups launched poster campaigns that got the attention of the local and national media. "Swabians in Prenzlauer Berg ... what do you actually want here?" one of the posters read...
...Hans-Jürgen Bernsee, 66, has lived in the same house in Prenzlauer Berg since 1970. The retired electrician, who now works at a local community center, has experienced the rapid change of his neighborhood firsthand. He talks about how suddenly young academics and artists, "people who like to sleep in in the morning," many of them from the West, began flocking to the formerly working-class-dominated neighborhood. Unlike Stefanel-Stoffel, he's not shocked by the recent outbreak of vandalism - despite the fact that only a few weeks ago, a car was set alight right outside...