Word: loden
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Every chic cosmopolitan's wardrobe should include an Austrian jacket or coat. Lanz (43-662-87-42-72; lanztrachten.at) is the place to get the warmest loden in a traditional dark green, gray or navy...
...afford it, though, Salzburg affords in return an unparalleled opportunity to display wealth and finery. On the street in front of the Festspielhaus, Mercedes-Benz and BMW luxury sedans steadily disgorge one of the most elegantly dressed summer crowds in Europe, the men in tuxedoes or formal Austrian loden coats, the bejeweled women in couturier fantasies and silk dress dirndls. One favorite local pastime is estimating the retail value of the gems on parade between Hirsch and the Festspielhaus before curtain time...
...illustrator, as critics irked by his popular appeal regularly did a decade or more ago. True, his work is grounded in illustration and often fails to transcend it. Not a few of the images of Helga lying naked on a bed or tramping resolutely through the snow in her Loden coat have the banal neatness of things done for a women's magazine. Some of them, like the technically impressive watercolor In the Orchard, 1974, are as deadly in their "sensitiveness" as greeting cards. But there are some fine drawings here, moments of vision caught with attentiveness and precision, that...
...strands that run through his daytime wear, the dominant one is meticulous tailoring. An outfit in loden green wool tweed, made for the Dior label, is a marvel of classic grace achieved through proportion and soft pleating. Pants, which Saint Laurent thinks may be his biggest contribution to fashion, have clear, economical lines, never exaggerated, never mannish. Good tailoring is behind what is truly his greatest influence on clothing, the huge (172 outlets) international string of Rive Gauche shops, started in 1966, that sell Saint Laurent's ready-to-wear line. There are only a few examples...
DIED. Barbara Loden, 48, actress-director, one of the first women to write, direct and star in her own feature film; of cancer; in New York City. She had been married since 1967 to Elia Kazan, who directed her in her Tony Award-winning performance as the Marilyn Monroe figure in Arthur Miller's After the Fall. Her 1970 Wanda, a proto-feminist chronicle about a drab, desperate Appalachian housewife, won the International Critics Prize at that year's Venice Film Festival...