Word: maharajahs
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...amazing art collection by the '30s, and they were the first family to build an air-conditioned palace," he says, going on to describe the Labradors that jump in the skiff ferrying guests to nearby islands and temples, and host Prince Richard Holkar, son of the late Maharajah of Indore, who has written a cookbook and serves "marvelous gingerbread cakes...
...decades, the fashionable way for Westerners to tour India was hopscotching from one former maharajah's palace to another, many made over and managed by India's big hotel chains and all of them trading on India's colonial past. They boast scores of costumed staff, playful nods to aristocratic pastimes like life-size chessboards and an irritating parade of people with name tags searching for their corporate event. Now, the more modern way to see India is a mix: a few outstanding palaces and an eclectic selection of small luxury hotels and guesthouses...
...small hotels and knowing which ones have experienced declines in service require frequent visits. We loved one of the chic co-owners of Barwara Kothi, a new guesthouse in Jaipur. The food was delicious, and the Art Deco home where her in-laws' family entertained a maharajah has a good ambiance. However, it was noisy, though the owners have since planted barriers and reinforced windows. Also, be warned that some large travel operators snub the small hotels because the commissions paid are smaller than those of the big chains and booking rooms requires more legwork...
Kesri Singh, the "thakur" of the erstwhile kingdom of Mandawa, looks like an old-fashioned Indian maharajah. Over six feet tall, with a barrel chest and imperious paunch, he wears the upturned bristly gray moustache that his father and grandfather sported in their own time to mark their nobility. That much is clear from the oil paintings that loom behind Singh on a hot early morning on the verandah of his 71-room hotel, the Castle Mandawa, in the northwestern Indian region of Rajasthan...
...rival hotelier in Mandawa. But how will the wealthy Marwaris of Kolkata treat the scion of their erstwhile liege? Will they remember the bad old days when their families clung to the walls of his castle, treated with scorn as grubby moneylenders? "No, no, we treat all maharajahs with great respect," says Rajesh Khaitan, a prominent Marwari lawyer and ex-politician, sipping coffee in the city's elite Bengal Club. "But speaking for myself, I may not give much money." Being a maharajah, alas, isn't what it used...