Word: makaha
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Dates: during 1964-1964
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...into the boiling froth). They listen to apostles, who preach: "When the surf is good, you've got to go and get it. Work is secondary. Once you're about 30, then it's time to take a solid job." And they all yearn to visit Makaha, a lonely beach 40 miles west of Honolulu...
...Makaha is where the waves build up to 20 and 30 ft., and race diagonally into shore at 35 m.p.h. It is the supreme test-"the place," says one surfer, "where reputations are made...
Warming Up on Snow. The man who made his reputation in Makaha's big surf last week was Joseph ("Joey") Cabell, 25, a restaurant owner from Newport Beach, Calif., who summers in Hawaii. While 1,000 spectators watched from the beach, Cabell outclassed 349 contestants from as far away as Australia and Peru to win the International Surfing Championships. A trim six-footer (most top surfers are short) who has been at it since he was seven, Cabell keeps in shape during the winter by skiing on snow. The two, he says, are a lot alike...
Every other finalist at last week's championships used a "gun"-a long, heavy (up to 40 Ibs.) board designed for stability in big waves like Makaha's. Cabell preferred a shorter, lighter (25 Ibs.) foam-and-fiber-glass "natural," designed for easy maneuverability and ordinarily used in smaller waves. Each surfer got seven tries. Cabell rode four of his waves almost half a mile clear in to the beach, catching each looming 25-footer off Makaha's northwestern tip, standing up for 300 yds., dropping prone as it dissolved to foam crossing a reef, then rising...