Word: mamou
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...reset button and start again: in Mamou, in Evangeline Parish, in Louisiana's Cajun country, they celebrated Mardi Gras last week on horseback, on the dance floor and belly up in the ditches. The celebration lacked the formality and the aristocracy, whatever that is, of the carnival in New Orleans, but it may have surpassed the Crescent City in madness (you may have the hang of it here...
...Mamou is a dog-eared old town, with a not-quite-finished look about it, as though its builders knocked off a week or two early. It is a low town, with one main street full of bars, set in farming country where people raise soybeans one year, rice the next, winter rye the next, and then begin the cycle again. Over the years nothing much changes in Mamou. The boys in this culture are expected to mature into good providers and two-fisted drinkers, and the girls are expected to marry and swap obsequiousness for fidelity and adulation...
Paul Tate Jr., of the Mamou law firm Tate, Tate & Tate, explained that it is a day to "do things out of character even if you don't drink. You pinch a pretty woman, or something. And then the next day you clean up your...
...interior and exterior, enveloped the men of Mamou on the morning of the great ride. Breakfast was beer and boudin (pronounced boo-dan, a muscular local sausage of rice, pork and pork liver that can quickly become an addiction). The mounted Cajun corps made it half a mile down the road before it had to find a field to relieve itself...
...Door Wearing Shorts or Slacks") sit a pianist, trumpeter, guitarist, bass fiddler. As the evening wears on and the smoke from the wall tables eddies through the room, the band is likely to swing with a pile-driver beat into some old favorites-Big Mamou or Shake It and Break It. The style, as raw and jolting as a shot of bootleg rye, offers the last authentic taste of the music that once helped make New Orleans the world's jazz capital...