Word: manhattanization
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...sort of going crazy in the kitchen to keep up with greens that will be interesting and new and delightful to the eye," says Anne Rosenzweig, the chef and partner at the small and sophisticated Arcadia, one of the best new wave restaurants in Manhattan. "I'm doing roast quail on beet greens," she says proudly. Rosenzweig reports that out-of-town visitors compare dishes they have had in Par is to those she created, adding, "They do tours of New York restaurants or the California wine country...
...most of these graduates, eclectic a key word. It certainly applies to the food served at Miss Ruby's Café, which opened late last year in Manhattan. Says Ruth Bronz, the Texas-born owner-chef: "I plan menu changes on a regular basis, switching from Cajun-Creole to New Mexican to Shaker. I'm missionary about it." Shaker food, along with the fare of the Pennsylvania Dutch and the American Indians, has already packed them in at special festivals in the formal American Harvest restaurant at Manhattan's Vista International Hotel. And surely eclectic the word for the menu...
...exotica on menus. Banished are the evocative references to such shrines as Burgundy, Provence and Lyons. Instead, the places dropped are likely to be El Paso, Iowa, Michigan, Memphis, Albuquerque, the Arizona Badlands and even the Bronx, where small farms and greenhouses supply endive and herbs to tony Manhattan restaurants and markets...
...American Spoon Foods in Petoskey, Mich. As Americans discover that wild mushrooms grow in their woods and ma-che, or lamb's-lettuce, in their fields, they are paying premium prices for such produce at places like the Irvine Ranch Farmers Market in Los Angeles and Balducci's in Manhattan. Says Specialty Food Buyer Louis Balducci: "U.S. products are selling because they are good and interesting. Even American caviar is better than it was. In the beginning you couldn't give that stuff away. Now it's edible because the curing process has been perfected." To many connoisseurs, edible...
...from an eating tour of Italy, plans to add new creations to his old favorites, such as a soup of kale, brisket and hominy, and fried troutlings with a sweet pepper and horseradish dip. Len Allison and Karen Hubert, who run Huberts, a superior restaurant off Gramercy Park in Manhattan, admit their debt to Novi, whom they consider the father of new American cooking...