Word: mannequin
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Aesthetic Cannibalism. With the extravagance of one who has hat blocks to squander, Ossorio used no fewer than five in his work titled Waste Not, Want Not. Along with four mannequin heads, plus the weathered skull of a toothy lion, they have been neatly skewered, mounted and bedecked with paint to form a chillingly gay totem pole. It stands as a kind of wry monument to Ossorio's own aesthetic cannibalism...
There are a few adornments to the story. Through a series of flashbacks using filmed sequences shown on mirrored screens, Coco's past love affairs are recalled. She develops a motherly feeling for one of her young mannequins and becomes one of the angles in a rather flimsy triangle involving herself, the mannequin and the girl's lover. The Lerner script makes a stab at smart-set language, but at heart Coco is an old-fashioned musical. It stands or falls on its star and its music...
Couturier Yves Saint Laurent ordered a gold plated copper cast made of Model Veruschka's bosom, slipped it over a mannequin, and sent her down the runway; it was one way to top off a skirt. Courreges had a model roar up to the footlights in a minicar with a Plexiglas dome, and presented another wearing pingpong balls pasted on her oversized sunglasses. Cecil Beaton sketched. Lauren Bacall applauded. Katharine Hepburn hid out from photographers. Coco Chanel curled up on the salon stairway while her collection was shown and coolly surveyed the crush below. But then Chanel has been...
Klee-Like Fabrics. For decolletage, Courreges stole the show. To go with his miniskirts held up by suspenders, his models displayed bare breasts. Not to be undone, Bohan's girls wore not a single bra and slithered unencumbered about the salon. Hardly unusual, perhaps, but one mannequin, wearing nothing but a black velvet sheath split straight up the front, caused Cecil Beaton to drop his pencil. "She looks as if she left the convent too soon," he gasped...
...Hollander, 24, thinks he knows why: "At a rock concert, the atmosphere is love. The rock groups talk their language. But at a classical concert, all they see is a guy in white tie and tails coming out very up tight on a platform. That's a plastic mannequin - society's little machine running up there. If live concerts are going to survive, the artists themselves are going to have to change...