Word: maputo
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First get yourself (by plane from Johannesburg or car from Maputo) to Inhambane, a sleepy town on the southern coast. Then head to Tofo Beach, where a number of operators offer $40, two-hour speedboat trips. Try to pick the right day (calm and sunny, the better to spot shapes below the surface) and time (midday, when the sun is brightest). Also consider a wetsuit: the sea spray can be cold. (See pictures of luxury private islands...
...where about 5,000 people are camping in tents in an adjacent field, cheers erupted Wednesday as five buses arrived to take people back to Mozambique. On the opposite side of the field, 26-year old Mozambican Domingos Ubsse was sitting inside a minibus taxi, waiting to leave for Maputo. After 20 armed men barged into the room he shares with four others, breaking everything, he decided to leave: "My work is here, but I am going home because I don't feel safe here," he says...
...very hot - summer's night in Maputo's train station, and nobody's going anywhere. And that's just the way they want it. On a flatbed train car, under the latticed arches designed by Gustave Eiffel, Ghorwane, a local band that have been fusing African rhythms with politics since the early '80s, are shaking up a cocktail of sweaty fans. It's buzzing, but it's not full - not everybody in Mozambique's capital can afford the $6 door fee at Sr Mfumo Jazz Bar (formerly Chez Rangel). Most people still get by on just $40 a month...
...Machel government is under siege by a ten-year-old guerrilla insurgency that claims to control two-thirds of the rural interior and is now active in several urban areas. Last week rebels of the Mozambique National Resistance (M.N.R.) set off two car bombs in the capital of Maputo, injuring some 50 people, three of them critically. Despite its army of 15,000 men and a steady flow of military equipment from East bloc countries, the government has been unable to fight off the insurgents, who boast 10,000 men under arms and are suspected of receiving clandestine backing from...
...estimated one-third of Mozambique's population did not have enough to eat. As many as 100,000 died. The situation has stabilized, but Mozambique remains one of the largest food-aid recipients in Africa. "People are not dying so much anymore," says a CARE worker in Maputo. "But they are fleeing. They are barefoot and wandering...