Word: maternus
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...Haus Maternus. Poststr...
That one-star, one-line rating for the Weinhaus Maternus in the Michelin German guidebook is somewhat coy, albeit accurate as far as it goes. The service, as Michelin indicates, is indeed gemütlich and the food good. Eating there is also reasonable: a dinner for two can be had for $12. What the guidebook fails to mention is that Maternus, located in the Bonn suburb of Bad Godesberg* is undoubtedly the most important restaurant in West Germany. Its primary bill of fare is politics, not Sauerbraten, and as the capital's gathering place for party leaders, deputies...
...Maternus, named after a 4th century German bishop, successfully combines food, service, atmosphere and personality. Its kitchen turns out such specialties as Filet Wellington, Sole Nantua and Kalbsrücken Orloff, a veal steak that serves ten. The wine cellar contains an outstanding assortment of Moselle. The tables are decorated with well-worn pewter, the five public dining rooms provide the kind of labyrinthine privacy that politicians prefer, and the two private rooms are perfect for In-timpolitik. Presiding over all is Owner-Hostess Ria Alzen, a 55-year-old divorcee of quick wit and ready warmth. Because...
Owner Alzen's family have been restaurateurs for 176 years; her father bought Maternus in'1908, when it was merely a "wine cafe" serving Rhine wine and cold dishes. One guest, while the restaurant was a U.S. Army officers' club in 1945, was two-gun George Patton: the general candidly admired Ria's legs but never commented on the food. After Bonn became the federal capital and Ria became Maternus' sole owner, the restaurant's political era began. Konrad Adenauer liked to greet Ria, a fellow Rhinelander, in local dialect; he became a regular...
Slaughtered Legion. The federal a-polis has widely unnoted theatrical and opera companies and a dozen or so mediocre nightclubs, boasts only three starrable restaurants: the elegant, century-old Adler, a favorite of government gourmets and gossips called Maternus, and La Redoute, a rococo mansion where Beethoven once performed. For members of the 88 diplomatic missions in Bonn, the main diversions consist in attending one another's parties-at least 20 a week-and the American Club's Wednesday night bingo game. The Old Bonn families keep strictly to themselves; so do the town...
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