Word: maui
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...that so many are willing is that for many mainlanders the gloss has gone off some once fashionable Caribbean and Mexican resorts. The dollar is worth a dollar, almost. The natives speak English, sort of. It is a fairly easy hop for U.S. Westerners, who account for 80% of Maui's visitors (though 600 people a day flew from New York City en route to Maui on United alone last year). Though here and there a McDonald's, a Pizza Hut, a Baskin-Robbins has sprouted, it is still possible on Maui to rediscover the idyllic Hawaii...
...trees or coconut palms or fern forests, no hibiscus, begonia, bougainvillaea, poinsettia, u'ulei, mamane or hinahina blossoms, it would be worth visiting for Haleakala alone. It is among the world's largest dormant volcanoes-it has not erupted since 1790-and its brooding presence dominates Maui. The crater of 10,000-ft.-high Haleakala (pronounced Hah-lee-ah-kah-lah) is seven miles long, two miles across and half a mile deep. While it has almost no vegetation save for patches of glistening silversword, the crater is dotted with rose-tipped cinder cones, evidence of minor eruptions...
...islands are as delightful to the philologist as they are to the bird watcher or plant stalker. All Hawaiian place names have meanings, poetic or factual. Maui's Waianapanapa, site of a 120-acre, stream-laced state park, is "glistening water." There are lao (valley of dawning inspiration), Kapilau (sprinkle of rain on leaves), Lanilili (rippling surface) and Waiakoa (waters used by warrior). Kaanapali is "rolling cliffs." It is comforting when boating off Wailea to know that the "waters [are] governed by Lea," goddess of canoe making. Lahaina is "land of prophecies...
...Maui is neither easy nor cheap to get to, reports TIME Correspondent William Blaylock. Its Kahului Airport has been deliberately kept small so that it cannot handle direct flights from the mainland; jet passengers must disembark at Honolulu and transfer by cab ($3) or WikiWiki bus to the Aloha or Hawaiian Airlines terminal for the 20-min. onward flight to the Valley Isle, and may then have to rent a car to reach their destinations. Explains Elmer F. Cravalho, 53, the diminutive (5 ft. 5 in.), tough-minded descendant of Portuguese immigrants who has been Maui's mayor...
Tourism, however, is the island's biggest money spinner ($176 million, vs. $65 million from agriculture in fiscal 1977). Maui's seven major resort hotels have an occupancy rate of well over 90%, a phenomenon that actually distresses the hoteliers because they hardly have time to change the sheets between check-out and checkin. Not at all unhappy are the property developers who are dotting condominiums around the hotels on what was useless brush and mesquite land a few years ago. If Maui in the past century was ravaged by diseases brought in by outsiders, the island today...