Word: mcqueens
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...pioneer is the grimness of his vision. At times it reveals too much of the backstory of the gay son of a London taxi driver who grew up in welfare housing and whose sister would run home when she had been battered by her husband. No wonder McQueen's creativity has always reeked not of the innocence of youth or joyful fripperies but of brutal experience...
That this macabre imagination is coupled with dazzling craftsmanship gives the designer his heat. Beneath the shock of his antics is a natural talent coupled with technique acquired as a teenage trainee on Savile Row, the London street celebrated for handmade suits. After an apprenticeship of Dickensian harshness, McQueen harnessed his skills to the construction of cunning jackets, curved to just conceal the breasts, and trousers, called "bumsters," slung so low as to be rude...
When Hollywood calls--Kate Winslet, Cate Blanchett and Cameron Diaz have worn his clothes--McQueen can provide glamour on request. Recently his creations have revealed great sensitivity to the feel and fall of fabric. The word pretty could even be used--but not to his face. Although McQueen now has his first fragrance and even a property portfolio, don't expect this uncompromising frontiersman to go soft. --By Marion Hume...
...Alexander McQueen fashion shows, everyone aims to turn heads, whether they're McQueen groupies in never-worn-before pieces or editors in origami hats or vintage polka-dot bow-tie blouses. But at last fall's show, the figure most eyes followed was that of a handsome stranger who arrived with Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Conde Nast International, was greeted warmly by Domenico De Sole, CEO of Gucci Group (owner of the McQueen label), and shown to an envied front-row seat. The fashion plebeians who didn't recognize him or his power-broker companions couldn't miss his three...
...have responded by acquiring the smaller brands, a trick they learned from the beauty business, in which the conglomerate Estee Lauder, for example, bought out M.A.C. and Bobbi Brown in the mid-'90s. Between December 2000 and July 2001, the Gucci Group snapped up Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. Then there are individual specialty lines: Gucci has issued a series of made-to-measure handbags, and Bottega Veneta designer Thomas Maier offers custom-order services...