Word: mcqueens
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...fashion is nothing if not international. The last Frenchman to enter the big time was Christian Lacroix 10 years ago. The king of the industry is Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld, who is German. But the headlines are now being made by two young Englishmen: John Galliano, 36, and Alexander McQueen, just 27. A charming, egregiously talented pixie of a man, Galliano took over the house of Givenchy last year but has already moved on to preside over Christian Dior, considered--along with Chanel--the most important French fashion empire. McQueen, an East Ender previously unknown outside the trendier London precincts...
...Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH owns both Dior and Givenchy, is betting his money that the route to a younger market--the new, galvanizing image that has evaded the old couture houses in recent years--lies across the Channel. For if Galliano is famous for his sizzling sense of romance, McQueen delivers exquisite tailoring and "kick-arse clothes." And both newcomers pack an intangible in their sewing kits: they radiate a genius, confidence and eccentricity that make people think they are on the brink of reinventing fashion...
...more specific source of the delicious insouciance that both Galliano and McQueen display may be the alma mater they share: London's Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. It is easily the hottest fashion school in the world, a magnet not only for would-be designers but also for established masters looking to pick up fresh talent for their ateliers. CSM is not the only prominent fashion academy; Britain is known for its tradition of craft and in general supports artisans. But other schools tend toward commercial and technical values, emphasizing the set of a sleeve or production expertise...
...have spent a large part of my time being picky. I like the fact that the competition here is very stiff." He is also focused on a celebrated school tradition: the graduation show. It draws an international gathering of fashion powerhouses. Galliano's success began there, as did McQueen's; their offerings were swooped up by buyers or magazines. Copley has similar dreams: "I have my fingers crossed that someone will buy my clothes at the show...
...padding, above, that only a Quasimodel could love. The designer said her aim was to "create clothes without any reference to anything existing." She's right on target. Meanwhile the big couture houses seem to be getting a taste for the wacky. Givenchy has hired British enfant terrible Alexander McQueen, 27, the son of a taxi driver, who's most famous for his "bumster" pants--like hipsters, but much lower...