Word: meat
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...Kerik's unpleasant youth and more recent adventures and skewed them into vague and shadowy misadventures, thus trivializing the man's merits and suggesting that what he ultimately did for his city and country was insignificant and self-serving. Recounting Kerik's rites of passage and twisting them into meat for conspiracy theories is petty and niggling. The intent to mask the story as a critical essay on loyalty - well, it just didn't make the stretch. Continuing to rip Kerik through Giuliani and Giuliani through Kerik is a trite and wearisome pastime, isn't it? Chris McLoughlin, Atlanta...
...even the most genetically blessed beef can turn tough if it is not treated properly. Chilling the meat immediately after slaughter triples its toughness. The ultimate steak has to be cooled gradually and then properly dry-aged. Most importantly, it must be cooked to no more than 140ºF (60ºC), or medium rare...
This brings us to another supermarket paradox: moist raw meat means dry, tasteless steak. Fresh is certainly not best. Beef has to be hung to lose excess water, develop complex flavor, and break down tough fibers, but for how long? Experts disagree, sometimes violently. With all due respect to Zaldúa, two weeks is not enough for full-on flavor. Nor does youth yield tenderness. After encountering a steak at Etxebarri in Axpe from an old retired dairy cow as tender as a veal calf and infinitely more flavorful, I was also ready to challenge the received wisdom that...
...Portugal for his little restaurant. After a life of flavor-building labor, they are boarded here until they become sleek and relaxed from eating hay and grain, avoiding heifers, and listening to Latin disco pop. After sending them to that big pasture in the sky, he ages the meat at 32ºF (0ºC) for between 40 and 100 days...
...Capricho's private underground dining room, the meat came practically raw and boneless to the table, where we cooked piece after piece on earthenware platters sprinkled with salt. We gorged ourselves on the deep, primordial flavor of beef as it was meant to be, full of days spent in the goodness of open fields. Somehow in the cholesterol-induced euphoria, my brain noted that the perfect steak seemed to be in the center rib section, aged for 90 days, of a 16-year-old Rubia Gallega...