Word: menswear
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...most adventurous when it comes to how far she will push the textile mills in new directions. She loves to tell the story of kid mohair, a kind of plush, teddy-bear-like pile fabric that was considered completely uncommercial before she used it in a menswear collection for spring 2002. "I was forbidden to use it," she says with a laugh, "and of course, it became a best seller...
Indeed, Italy's mills?from the silk manufacturers of Como to the wool and sportswear producers of Tuscany and the cashmere and menswear fabric mills of Biella?are Europe's largest producers of luxury textiles. And, along with the Japanese, Italians are considered among the greatest fabric innovators. "They innovate by constantly looking outside their industry for ideas," says Angelo Uslenghi, a Milan-based textile cool hunter. "There is not much new you can do to yarns and weaves, but you can look outside the textile industry at other industries such as fine jewelry where they use techniques like filigree...
...silver is ubiquitous in handbags and shoes and that the silhouette veers between a replicant look best realized by Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and an overtly romantic vision put forth by Alexander McQueen. But never mind spring. At press time we were already on to fall 2007, when menswear styles, funky fur and the color gray will be the dominant trends...
...menswear designer Thom Browne, any bells and whistles come hidden in the stitching. His dinner jackets and tuxedos, fashioned out of workaday cotton canvas, are bedecked with old-world details like grosgrain lining on a working sleeve vent or hand-stitched working buttonholes. "The detailing is never overt," he says. "Sometimes only the owner of the thing knows about...
...custom turntables, teepees and free fresh-squeezed orange juice. "People say, 'Is this a rock shop? A clothing shop? A bike store?' It's whatever you want to take from it. I'm just putting it out there," says Garduno, who, as a vice president for Ron Herman menswear and a buyer there for 20 years, has made a career out of predicting trends, including vintage denim and studded jeans...